FoodNet

Foods, their selection and preparation

1935

Page 103

Presented as published in 1935. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The milk may be easily heated in a double boiler without becoming too hot. When hot, pour the milk over the egg mix¬ ture. Stir until thoroughly mixed. For a soft custard, return the mixture to the double boiler. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly, until the custard will coat a spoon. Then it should be removed immediately to prevent overcooking. If allowed to cook too long or to reach too high a temperature, the egg protein is overcooked and the custard curdled in appearance. The only remedy for such a custard is hard beat¬ ing to break up the curds of overcoagulated protein. The best way for preventing this condition is by proper cooking. The custard should never exceed a temperature of 160° F. Both too high a temperature and too long cooking will ruin any custard. The flavoring and spices are added last, even after chilling if the custard is to be served cold. [in] For a baked custard, the mixture is poured into baking dishes, instead of being returned to the double boiler, for cooking. This kind of custard is cooked without stir¬ ring in a slow oven, 300° to 325° F., until an inserted knife comes out clean. It should be removed from the oven as soon as this stage is reached, to prevent overcooking. A prop¬ erly baked custard has smooth even texture; over-cooked custards tend to separate. When baking custard it is a good practice to place the dish of custard in a pan of water in the oven. This equalizes the temperature. It also serves as a guide to oven temperature when needed. The water surrounding either kind of custard during cooking never should boil. Since a baked custard is not stirred, the flavorings and seasonings necessarily are added before cooking. This kind of custard retains the solid jellied consistency which distinguishes it from the soft custards. Variations in Flavor. Much variety in custards may be derived from the flavoring. Any of the extracts or a combination of them, such as vanilla and almond, may be used. A part of the sugar may be caramelized or caramel may be prepared in advance. Brown sugar may be used for special flavor, as well as to give sweetness. Chocolate may be added. This may be melted and cooked in the milk. When chocolate is used, the sugar may need to be increased. Cinnamon or nutmeg or both may be added to custards of all kinds. Corn and other vegetables may be baked in custards. The well-known corn pudding is simply a baked custard. The liquid from the canned corn may replace part of the milk and the corn itself is cooked in the custard. French Custards. When eggs are scarce, or from choice, cornstarch or flour may be substituted for as much as half of the egg in either soft or baked custards. Enough whole egg or egg yolk must be used, however, to give the characteristic color and flavor of a true custard. The starch or flour is added to the milk and this mixture is brought to a hard boil, with constant stirring. It should be cooled to approximately 160° F. before the slightly beaten egg and sugar are added. The cooking is completed in the same way as for a true custard, that is, at low temperature.