The amount of milk in caramels. A large quantity of milk in cara-
mels develops a flavor that can be obtained in no other way. Slow cooking
develops more of the brown color and flavor than rapid cooking. The
color comes from lactose-protein and dextrose-protein compounds and the
caramelization of the lactose with high temperatures and long cooking.
If all the milk is added when cooking is first started the milk may curdle.
If most of the milk is added slowly after the sirup is thick it very seldom
curdles. In using large quantities of milk in caramels the protein of the milk
will tend to prevent crystallization.
68 SUGAR COOKERY
Large quantities of fat increase the richness of caramels.
Caramels are stirred or handled as little as possible after the sirup
stops boiling until they are cool. After the boiling is stopped they soon
reach the saturation point, which for caramels is above 100°C., and
stirring the sirup or scraping the pan tends to produce crystals.
Taffy
Taffies or pulled candies have vinegar, lemon juice, or cream of tartar
added during cooking. These substances cause inversion of the sucrose,
which prevents crystallization. Dextrose, corn sirup, or molasses may be
added to the sucrose to prevent crystallization. Pulled taffies become white,
or if made with molasses become much lighter in color, on account of the
air bubbles incorporated during pulling.
The cooking temperatures of pulled candies vary according to the
ingredients and their proportion used, but follow the same general rules
as for caramels. Those containing large quantities of corn sirup are cooked
to lower temperatures. Taffies are firmer than caramels and are there-
fore cooked to higher temperatures.
Brittles
Brittles are much harder than caramels or taffies and are cooked to
high temperatures. At the temperatures to which they are cooked carameli-
zation of the sugar may take place, and this as well as added substances
tends to prevent crystallization. If caramelization is very extensive, a
number of decomposition products of sugar may develop, among which
are some acid substances. The greater the amount of caramelization the
stronger the flavor developed. Soda is often added to brittles. It not only
neutralizes the acidity developed and lessens the bitter flavor but owing to
gas formed gives a porous texture to the brittle.
LITERATURE CITED AND REFERENCES
Ayers, S. H., Williams, O. E., and Johnson, W. T., Jr. Sugar Substitutes in the
Ice Cream Mix. Ice Cream Trade J. 14: No. 4, 29 (1918).
Bancroft, W. D. Supersaturation and Crystal Size. J. Physical Chem. 24: 100
1920).
Blester, A., Wood, W. W., and Wahlin, C. S. Carbohydrate Studies. I. The
Relative Sweetness of Pure Sugars. Am. J. Physiology 73: 387 (1925).
Bingham, E. C. Fluidity and Plasticity. McGraw-Hill Co. (1922).
Browne, C. A. A Handbook of Sugar Analysis. J. Wiley & Sons (1912).
Browne, C. A. Moisture Absorbing Power of Different Sugars and Carbohydrates
under Varying Conditions of Atmospheric Humidity. Ind. Eng. Chem. 14: 712
(1922).
Bryant, A. P. Factory Control in the Manufacture of Cornstarch and Corn Sirup.
Ind. Eng. Chem. 8: 930 (1916).
REFERENCES 69
Carrick, M. S. Some Studies In Fondant Making. J. Physical Chem. 23 : 589 (1919).
Daniels, A, L., and Cook, D. Factors Influencing the Amount of Invert Sugar
Page 56
Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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The amount of milk in caramels. A large quantity of milk in cara-
mels develops a flavor that can be obtained in no other way. Slow cooking
develops more of the brown color and flavor than rapid cooking. The
color comes from lactose-protein and dextrose-protein compounds and the
caramelization of the lactose with high temperatures and long cooking.
If all the milk is added when cooking is first started the milk may curdle.
If most of the milk is added slowly after the sirup is thick it very seldom
curdles. In using large quantities of milk in caramels the protein of the milk
will tend to prevent crystallization.
68 SUGAR COOKERY
Large quantities of fat increase the richness of caramels.
Caramels are stirred or handled as little as possible after the sirup
stops boiling until they are cool. After the boiling is stopped they soon
reach the saturation point, which for caramels is above 100°C., and
stirring the sirup or scraping the pan tends to produce crystals.
Taffy
Taffies or pulled candies have vinegar, lemon juice, or cream of tartar
added during cooking. These substances cause inversion of the sucrose,
which prevents crystallization. Dextrose, corn sirup, or molasses may be
added to the sucrose to prevent crystallization. Pulled taffies become white,
or if made with molasses become much lighter in color, on account of the
air bubbles incorporated during pulling.
The cooking temperatures of pulled candies vary according to the
ingredients and their proportion used, but follow the same general rules
as for caramels. Those containing large quantities of corn sirup are cooked
to lower temperatures. Taffies are firmer than caramels and are there-
fore cooked to higher temperatures.
Brittles
Brittles are much harder than caramels or taffies and are cooked to
high temperatures. At the temperatures to which they are cooked carameli-
zation of the sugar may take place, and this as well as added substances
tends to prevent crystallization. If caramelization is very extensive, a
number of decomposition products of sugar may develop, among which
are some acid substances. The greater the amount of caramelization the
stronger the flavor developed. Soda is often added to brittles. It not only
neutralizes the acidity developed and lessens the bitter flavor but owing to
gas formed gives a porous texture to the brittle.
LITERATURE CITED AND REFERENCES
Ayers, S. H., Williams, O. E., and Johnson, W. T., Jr. Sugar Substitutes in the
Ice Cream Mix. Ice Cream Trade J. 14: No. 4, 29 (1918).
Bancroft, W. D. Supersaturation and Crystal Size. J. Physical Chem. 24: 100
1920).
Blester, A., Wood, W. W., and Wahlin, C. S. Carbohydrate Studies. I. The
Relative Sweetness of Pure Sugars. Am. J. Physiology 73: 387 (1925).
Bingham, E. C. Fluidity and Plasticity. McGraw-Hill Co. (1922).
Browne, C. A. A Handbook of Sugar Analysis. J. Wiley & Sons (1912).
Browne, C. A. Moisture Absorbing Power of Different Sugars and Carbohydrates
under Varying Conditions of Atmospheric Humidity. Ind. Eng. Chem. 14: 712
(1922).
Bryant, A. P. Factory Control in the Manufacture of Cornstarch and Corn Sirup.
Ind. Eng. Chem. 8: 930 (1916).
REFERENCES 69
Carrick, M. S. Some Studies In Fondant Making. J. Physical Chem. 23 : 589 (1919).
Daniels, A, L., and Cook, D. Factors Influencing the Amount of Invert Sugar