FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 409

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
(2) Time. This factor as in other reactions is also important, the length of time the batter containing soda stands before baking influencing the color obtained. It has been found that cake batter which has stood 10 to 15 minutes — some cake bakers often permit it to stand while they bake a test cake — usually gives a richer mahogany shade than a portion of the same batter baked immediately after mixing. These results have not always been consistent with different varieties of chocolate and cocoa, but are obtained in a majority of the experiments. (3) The quantity of chocolate or cocoa used. The shade is darker with a larger quantity. (4) The brand of chocolate or cocoa used. The reasons for variation in color with different brands of chocolate and cocoa have been indicated under their production. There is also a difference in the flavor of different brands of chocolate and cocoa. (5) The kind of baking powder used. It was quite a surprise to find that, when butter, sugar, eggs, and chocolate have been mixed together (Experiment 85B,5), then divided, and a different baking powder used with each portion, the same shade is not obtained with all the different baking powders. But after all is said, why try to develop the red color? The very rich mahogany red cannot be developed except with an alkaline reaction, which is obtained by using an excess of soda. It has been the experience in the author's laboratory that nearly all the students prefer the flavor of choco- late cakes that do not contain an excess of soda. An excess of soda destroys the distinctive chocolate flavor, and if a chocolate cake is eaten for real chocolate flavor, a rich brown shade will be preferred to the mahogany one. Chocolate and cocoa contain starch. During the production of chocolate, part of the starch has been dextrinized, and this partially dextrinized starch thickens the cold cake batter, the other portion of the starch thickening when heated. For this reason the flour used in chocolate cakes must be reduced, the proportion of liquid increased, or the fat and sugar increased. The sugar needs to be increased because of the strong flavor of the choco- late. Although chocolate itself contains fat, the texture and perhaps the 516 BATTERS AND DOUGHS flavor are Improved if the chocolate cake recipe contains a rather high percentage of fat. White cake. White cake usually contains a greater proportion of sugar than a plain cake. Sometimes it contains a larger proportion of fat too. Egg whites are added, but the egg yolks are omitted. In the conven- tional method of mixing white cake the beaten egg whites are folded into the batter after the other ingredients have been mixed. The beaten egg white may also be folded or stirred into the fat and sugar with the flour and milk. This method, Experiment 86,6, usually produces a cake that is more tender than the cake made by the conven- tional method. Stirring the beaten egg white into the flour mixture is easier, and as in the plain cake seems to give as good results as folding. The texture of the white cake is usually better if the flour and liquid are added in portions and not all at one time. Gingerbread. To discuss the effect of manipulation and the kind and proportion of ingredients used in gingerbread would be only to repeat what has been stated under muffins and cakes.