Though the amount of sugar added to chocolate liquor varies greatly
and the blends of chocolate are unlimited, Zenlea makes the following
classifications of general types: bitter-sweet, dark-sweet, medium-dark
sweet, light-sweet, milk, ice cream bar, skim milk, buttermilk, malted milk,
imitation, and lecithin coatings. Bywaters states that the tannin group of
substances is a very important constituent of cacao matter, "for it deter-
mines to a great extent the colour and the taste of the product. Cacao
catechin and cacao tannin are present in the fresh unfermented bean." The
catechin gives a very b'tter flavor. Adam and Jensen have both determined
the amount of catechin and cacao tannin in the unfermented bean and in
the manufactured chocolate and cocoa. During fermentation the cacao
catechin is transformed to cacao tannin. The amount of cacao tannin found
in the fully fermented beans averages 1.9 per cent.
Bywaters states that cacao tannin in the presence of oxygen is trans-
formed into a phlobaphene, which is insoluble in water and reddish in color.
The red color of cocoa is chiefly due to the presence of this phlobaphene.
To make cocoa the chocolate liquor is put in a hydraulic press and part
of the cocoa butter is removed, leaving a cake containing less than one-half
as much cocoa butter as the chocolate. This cake is pulverized.
Cocoa. Zenlea states that there are many kinds of cocoas, but depending
on processing they may be separated into two main classifications: (a)
natural and (b) Dutch.
Natural-process cocoas have had no alkalies or **Dutching agents" added
during manufacture. Schaal states that probably about 75 per cent of the
cocoas used by bakers are natural-processed cocoas. Some chocolate is also
"Dutch" processed.
Dutch-process cocoas have been treated with an alkaline solution such as
potassium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, or sodium carbonate or
bicarbonate. In some instances, according to Zenlea, the cleaned nibs are
actually boiled in an alkali solution as strong as 3 per cent, based on the
weight of the nibs. In commercial practise 2 per cent of alkali is more
commonly used. To complete the treatment, the water is evaporated and
the Dutch nibs dried in a roaster. The nibs are then treated in the same
manner as nibs for natural-process cocoas.
Bywaters gives the object of the Dutch process as follows : ( 1 ) To im-
prove the flavor, (2) to improve the color, (3) to improve the solubility,
and (4) to improve the digestibility. The proportion of cocoa that can be
dissolved is less than 25 per cent, even after treatment. The treatment
514 BATTERS AND DOUGHS
darkens the color. Zenlea states that natural cocoas have a pH value of
5.2 to 6.0; chocolate 5.1 to 6.2; ''Dutched" cocoas have a pH of 6.0 to
7.5 ; and chocolate a pH 6.0 to 7.8. The reaction depends on the original
pH of the nibs and the quantity and kind of alkali added.
Chocolate and cocoa contain some organic acids such as acetic and
tartaric. The reaction of the cocoa determines the amount of soda that can
be neutralized by the cocoa or chocolate in cooking. Less soda should be
used with a Dutched cocoa in such products as cake and cookies in which
soda is used, for the natural acidity of the cocoa has been lessened by the
creatment.
Page 407
Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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Though the amount of sugar added to chocolate liquor varies greatly
and the blends of chocolate are unlimited, Zenlea makes the following
classifications of general types: bitter-sweet, dark-sweet, medium-dark
sweet, light-sweet, milk, ice cream bar, skim milk, buttermilk, malted milk,
imitation, and lecithin coatings. Bywaters states that the tannin group of
substances is a very important constituent of cacao matter, "for it deter-
mines to a great extent the colour and the taste of the product. Cacao
catechin and cacao tannin are present in the fresh unfermented bean." The
catechin gives a very b'tter flavor. Adam and Jensen have both determined
the amount of catechin and cacao tannin in the unfermented bean and in
the manufactured chocolate and cocoa. During fermentation the cacao
catechin is transformed to cacao tannin. The amount of cacao tannin found
in the fully fermented beans averages 1.9 per cent.
Bywaters states that cacao tannin in the presence of oxygen is trans-
formed into a phlobaphene, which is insoluble in water and reddish in color.
The red color of cocoa is chiefly due to the presence of this phlobaphene.
To make cocoa the chocolate liquor is put in a hydraulic press and part
of the cocoa butter is removed, leaving a cake containing less than one-half
as much cocoa butter as the chocolate. This cake is pulverized.
Cocoa. Zenlea states that there are many kinds of cocoas, but depending
on processing they may be separated into two main classifications: (a)
natural and (b) Dutch.
Natural-process cocoas have had no alkalies or **Dutching agents" added
during manufacture. Schaal states that probably about 75 per cent of the
cocoas used by bakers are natural-processed cocoas. Some chocolate is also
"Dutch" processed.
Dutch-process cocoas have been treated with an alkaline solution such as
potassium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, or sodium carbonate or
bicarbonate. In some instances, according to Zenlea, the cleaned nibs are
actually boiled in an alkali solution as strong as 3 per cent, based on the
weight of the nibs. In commercial practise 2 per cent of alkali is more
commonly used. To complete the treatment, the water is evaporated and
the Dutch nibs dried in a roaster. The nibs are then treated in the same
manner as nibs for natural-process cocoas.
Bywaters gives the object of the Dutch process as follows : ( 1 ) To im-
prove the flavor, (2) to improve the color, (3) to improve the solubility,
and (4) to improve the digestibility. The proportion of cocoa that can be
dissolved is less than 25 per cent, even after treatment. The treatment
514 BATTERS AND DOUGHS
darkens the color. Zenlea states that natural cocoas have a pH value of
5.2 to 6.0; chocolate 5.1 to 6.2; ''Dutched" cocoas have a pH of 6.0 to
7.5 ; and chocolate a pH 6.0 to 7.8. The reaction depends on the original
pH of the nibs and the quantity and kind of alkali added.
Chocolate and cocoa contain some organic acids such as acetic and
tartaric. The reaction of the cocoa determines the amount of soda that can
be neutralized by the cocoa or chocolate in cooking. Less soda should be
used with a Dutched cocoa in such products as cake and cookies in which
soda is used, for the natural acidity of the cocoa has been lessened by the
creatment.