Experimental cookery

That baking powder has an effect on the viscosity of the batter is shown clearly by adding varying amounts of baking powder (Experiment 84D) to a particular cake recipe. A much stiffer, thicker batter is secured with the larger quantity of baking powder. Varying the proportiori of egg. With increased egg the cell walls become thinner and the cells smaller and regular in shape as the mixing is con- tinued. When the egg is increased the crumb is very elastic, the cake more rubbery, tough, and compact. Increasing the egg imparts a glaze to the crust, but the appearance is different from, and less crystalline than, that produced with increased sugar. The plain cake recipe with increased egg and no other changes is not so desirable as the original recipe. If egg is increased, a better texture is obtained if the white is beaten separately and added last. Varying the proportion of sugar. Sugar is added for sweetening. But it also affects the texture of the product. With larger quantities of sugar the batter must be mixed longer even when baking powders that react rapidly at low temperatures are used. The sugar competes with the gluten and BALANCING CAKE FORMULAS 507 other ingredients for the liquid and prevents the development of the gluten so that longer mixing is necessary. When the sugar in the very plain cake recipe is increased from 1 to 1^ cups a sweeter cake is obtained and one with a better-balanced formula, so that a better texture and volume are obtained. The amount of mixing to produce the best texture with Ij^ cups of sugar is from 225 to 300 strokes when a tartrate or phosphate baking powder is used, if the powder is added with the flour. When the proportion of sugar is increased to 2 cups, Fig. 74, a decidedly different texture is obtained from that when the flour or egg is increased. With slight mixing the top of the cake is sunken or fallen; see Fig. 74, cake number 1, mixed with 50 strokes. Experiment 84F,4. Sometimes the cake bubbles up over the top of the pan and then falls. The top is rough, shiny, and has a crystalline appearance. The cell walls are very thick and the cells are large and coarse. The cake browns readily. It is gummy and chewy when tasted. As the amount of mixing is increased the texture of the cake is improved. The number of strokes required to produce a fine grain is very much greater than in the plain cake. The texture with 1000 and 1500 strokes, cakes numbers 5 and 6, Fig. 74, is very much better than in the cakes just slightly mixed. The most desirable texture is sometimes ob- tained with 400 strokes, sometimes with 1000, and occasionally with 1500. The cakes with increased sugar used in the illustrations were made with a tartrate baking powder. Varying the proportion of fat. Increasing the fat results in a more tender cake. The fat in the plain cake recipe can be increased from ^ cup to ^ cup and a good texture obtained, but the volume of the cake is smaller. The cake is better if the sugar and eggs are increased at the same time. The appearance of the crust of a cake with a large amount of fat is rather smooth. It browns readily, but not so easily as with sugar.