its distribution in the batter can be determined by a microscope. Some of
the fat is rather coarsely emulsified, and a good deal is found in layers and
pools. Over-cooking of the fat, flour, and water increases the quantity of
fat not emulsified. As the egg is added the fat becomes better emulsified,
the dispersed spheres becoming smaller. The layers and pools of fat mostly
disappear. The secret, and therefore the most important factor, in mixing
cream puffs in order to obtain good expansion during baking and a good
cavity is to beat the batter while adding the eggs until it is quite smooth,
with no suggestions of small lumpy spots. Perhaps this is the reason why
some directions for mixing cream puffs advise adding the unbeaten eggs one
at a time. Incorporating the eggs one at a time at least insures thorough
blending of the first eggs added. However, the eggs can be mixed with
the batter as easily or more easily after they are beaten. When the puffs
are made in large quantity, more than once the recipe, it is better to cool
the paste slightly before the eggs are added because the large amount does
not cool as rapidly as a smaller quantity. Some recipes state to cool the
dough mixture before adding the eggs. On the whole, much better class
results have been obtained by adding the eggs to the dough while it is
warm. The probable explanation for this is that the surface tension is lower
at the higher temperature and the emulsion forms more readily.
If the proportion of water drops below a certain level the tendency for
the fat to run from the dough while baking is increased. This may be due
to the fat being more easily emulsified in the thinner batter.
Sometimes the batter is very thin after the eggs are added, and it
spreads and does not hold its shape on the baking sheet. When baked, the
puff expands in one layer, giving a puff without a bottom or with a layer
across the bottom that is too thin to hold a filling. This thin batter can
sometimes be partially remedied by cooking and stirring over hot water
in a double boiler until the batter is stiff enough to hold its shape when
dropped on the baking sheet. The batter should be stiff enough to hold its
shape, yet soft enough to appear glossy, and if forced through a pastry
tube should retain the imprint of the tube teeth. The formation of the
thin batter is not always due to under-cooking, for the flour, fat, and water
may form a stiff ball. The fat is emulsified thoroughly enough to prevent
its oozing out of the batter, but something happens that prevents the batter
from becoming viscous. Usually, when the egg is first added the batter
becomes somewhat thinner, but after being mixed the batter becomes in-
creasingly viscous, until incorporation of the egg is complete, just as
mayonnaise becomes stiffer as larger proportions of oil are emulsified.
Steam is the leavening agent, and the expansion due to the steam pro-
duces the cavity in the puff. Eggs are necessary, for their expansion and
coagulation during cooking forms part of the framework of the baked puff.
If the number of eggs is reduced and the amount of fat reduced at the
same time a fair puff may be obtained. If the number of eggs is reduced the
fat is not sufficiently emulsified and oozes from the puff as it bakes. As a
GRIDDLE CAKES 463
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its distribution in the batter can be determined by a microscope. Some of
the fat is rather coarsely emulsified, and a good deal is found in layers and
pools. Over-cooking of the fat, flour, and water increases the quantity of
fat not emulsified. As the egg is added the fat becomes better emulsified,
the dispersed spheres becoming smaller. The layers and pools of fat mostly
disappear. The secret, and therefore the most important factor, in mixing
cream puffs in order to obtain good expansion during baking and a good
cavity is to beat the batter while adding the eggs until it is quite smooth,
with no suggestions of small lumpy spots. Perhaps this is the reason why
some directions for mixing cream puffs advise adding the unbeaten eggs one
at a time. Incorporating the eggs one at a time at least insures thorough
blending of the first eggs added. However, the eggs can be mixed with
the batter as easily or more easily after they are beaten. When the puffs
are made in large quantity, more than once the recipe, it is better to cool
the paste slightly before the eggs are added because the large amount does
not cool as rapidly as a smaller quantity. Some recipes state to cool the
dough mixture before adding the eggs. On the whole, much better class
results have been obtained by adding the eggs to the dough while it is
warm. The probable explanation for this is that the surface tension is lower
at the higher temperature and the emulsion forms more readily.
If the proportion of water drops below a certain level the tendency for
the fat to run from the dough while baking is increased. This may be due
to the fat being more easily emulsified in the thinner batter.
Sometimes the batter is very thin after the eggs are added, and it
spreads and does not hold its shape on the baking sheet. When baked, the
puff expands in one layer, giving a puff without a bottom or with a layer
across the bottom that is too thin to hold a filling. This thin batter can
sometimes be partially remedied by cooking and stirring over hot water
in a double boiler until the batter is stiff enough to hold its shape when
dropped on the baking sheet. The batter should be stiff enough to hold its
shape, yet soft enough to appear glossy, and if forced through a pastry
tube should retain the imprint of the tube teeth. The formation of the
thin batter is not always due to under-cooking, for the flour, fat, and water
may form a stiff ball. The fat is emulsified thoroughly enough to prevent
its oozing out of the batter, but something happens that prevents the batter
from becoming viscous. Usually, when the egg is first added the batter
becomes somewhat thinner, but after being mixed the batter becomes in-
creasingly viscous, until incorporation of the egg is complete, just as
mayonnaise becomes stiffer as larger proportions of oil are emulsified.
Steam is the leavening agent, and the expansion due to the steam pro-
duces the cavity in the puff. Eggs are necessary, for their expansion and
coagulation during cooking forms part of the framework of the baked puff.
If the number of eggs is reduced and the amount of fat reduced at the
same time a fair puff may be obtained. If the number of eggs is reduced the
fat is not sufficiently emulsified and oozes from the puff as it bakes. As a
GRIDDLE CAKES 463