FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 365

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
A leavening agent is a substance that forms bubbles of gas in a batter or dough, thus leavening it or making it porous. During the baking the ex- pansion of the gas produced stretches the batter ; then the heat coagulation of the protein of the flour or of the flour and eggs sets the dough structure. Yeast produces carbon dioxide gas in doughs, but with yeast a period of time is necessary for enough gas to be produced to leaven the dough suf- ficiently before the product can be baked. Steam. One of the simplest ways of leavening is by steam. One volume of water forms more than 1600 volumes of water vapor, so that steam may have considerable leavening ability. Steam is most effective as a leaven- ing agent in thin batters in which the proportion of water is large, such as popovers and cream puffs. Medium batters, of which griddle cakes and muffins are examples, are partially leavened by steam and partially by the gas produced from the added baking powder. Steam does not aid to such a great extent in leavening the batters and doughs containing little water both because of the small proportion of water used and because of the large amount held by the starch and protein. Soda. Sodium bicarbonate or soda may be used for a leavening agent. When heated it gives off gas as follows : 2 NaHCOs + Heat > Na2C03 + H2O + CO2 sodium sodium water carbon bicarbonate carbonate dioxide The residue, sodium carbonate, gives a disagreeable taste and produces a yellow color in the baked product. For this reason some substance is used with soda that combines with it to give an end product that does not affect the flavor or color of the food so decidedly as does sodium carbonate. Hydrochloric acid. The following reaction is typical of baking powder reactions in that an acid substance is combined with the soda to produce the gas. According to Hart, the first patent for a baking powder, taken by Dr. Whiting in 1837 in England, was for the formula given below. In the baking powders of today an acid salt, in powder form, replaces the acid of this formula. HCl -f NaHCOa > H2O + CO2 + NaCl hydrochloric sodium water carbon sodium acid bicarbonate dioxide chloride 447 448 BATTERS AND DOUGHS Baking ammonia. Baking ammonia has been used for years in baked products and is still used in many bakeries for some goods. Baking am- monia is ammonium bicarbonate; when heated it breaks up to form am- monia, water, and carbon dioxide. Since two gases are produced it is a very efficient leavening agent. The chief objection to its use is that, unless NH4HCO3 + heat > NH3 + H2O + CO2 ammonium ammonia water carbon bicarbonate dioxide all the ammonium bicarbonate is broken up and all the ammonia gas driven off, the taste and smell of ammonia remain in the baked product. For this reason it is used in baked products like cookies and cream puffs, that are small and thin or have thin walls.