FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 289

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Too small an amount of sugar to each egg white tends to give a less fluffy, less tender meringue and one lacking in sweetness. Too much sugar tends to give a gummy crust or one containing sugar crystals, though the amount of sugar that can be used to obtain a desirable meringue depends on the fineness of the sugar and perhaps on its rate of solution. In general, 2 tablespoons of fine or berry sugar per egg white give the best results. With ultra-fine crystals, as many as 3 tablespoons of sugar per egg white can be used; whereas with coarser granulated sugar, hitherto used more than at present, less than 2 tablespoons per egg is desirable. Powdered sugar containing starch is usually not satisfactory in meringues. Honey, sirup, or jelly may be used in meringues, but only 1 tablespoon per egg 352 EGG COOKERY white. Red jellies often give a blue rather than a pink tinge to the meringue. Baking necessarily requires a longer time at a lower temperature. All of the following temperatures have been used successfully, though a majority of the students working on meringues as special problems preferred 425° and 400°F.: 425°F. for 6 minutes, 400°F. for 8 minutes, 350°F. for 12 to 18 minutes, and 325°F. for 18 to 25 minutes. With temperatures below 325 °F., the time is long, the meringue often shrinks after being removed from the oven, and dries too much. Hard meringues. Hard meringues contain a larger proportion of sugar than soft meringues. Because of the high sugar content they have a fairly smooth, somewhat crystalline, crisp crust. They are usually puffy in appearance and are used for accompaniment to, as a foundation for, or as a dessert. The optimum amount of sugar appears to be 4 to 5 tablespoons per egg white, the smaller quantity probably being preferable. Since acid increases the tenderness of egg white, its addition is desirable. About 1 to 2 cc. of vinegar per egg white may be used ; but, since cream of tartar produces a more stable foam than acetic acid, the use of cream of tartar may be preferable. About 1^ per cent of cream of tartar, or between ^ to 34 teaspoon of cream of tartar per egg white, is satisfactory. The sugar is added in the same manner as for soft meringues, but, because of the larger quantity added, better results are usually obtained if it is added gradually. Bake on heavy paper at as low a temperature as possible, 225° to 275°F., for 40 to 60 minutes, the time depending on the temperature and size of the meringues. If the meringue is eaten shortly after baking, the soft centers, if not entirely dried in baking, are not objectionable. However, they may be removed. If the meringues are to stand over night, the Insti- tute of American Poultry Industries recommends letting them stand in the oven until cool, after the heat is turned off, in order to dry the centers. Omelets There are several types of omelets. They are designated in various ways as plain, French, and foamy omelets. Some have a white sauce or tapioca basis. In others, bread crumbs are used to absorb a part of the moisture. The type of omelet that has the egg yolk folded into the beaten white is sometimes called a foamy omelet. This is the type that requires the most skill in making and is the one mentioned here.