at which egg coagulates is one explanation. The proportion of sugar in
butterscotch fillings in different recipes varies from about 15 to 25 per
cent, or 15 to 25 grams per 100 grams of filling. A usual procedure is to
cook the sugar, cornstarch or flour, and scalded milk until thick. This
mixture is often added to the beaten yolks by stirring the hot mixture
into the yolks. Sometimes it is considered that the hot milk mixture will
coagulate or cook the egg yolk sufficiently. However, if the temperature
drops below 80°C. during this procedure and the mixture is not reheated
the egg yolks will not be cooked sufficiently. The filling appears thick at
the time, but on standing it becomes runny. If sugar is added to uncooked
egg yolks, mixed, and left to stand for a few minutes the mixture appears
thinner and more runny. If the yolks are not cooked sufficiently they act
in much the same way, the sugar dissolving in the uncooked yolk and the
filling becoming runny. This has never been observed by the author if
the mixture is heated to a sufficiently high temperature after the egg yolks
are added. The same thing may occur in chocolate and lemon pie fillings,
although this in some instances is due to not using enough starch, the action
of the acid on the smaller amount of starch lessening the stiffness of the
filling. Another possible cause is the tannin of the brow^n sugar, because
the tannin has a dehydrating effect on many sols. But to date it has not
been possible to obtain thinning in the butterscotch filling by adding slightly
more tannin than might be found in the sugar.
Baked products. The addition of sugar to egg in baked products also
tends to delay coagulation or peptize the egg proteins and will be discussed
further under angel cake and cakes containing fats.
Cooked Salad Dressings
Vinegar, lemon juice, or a mixture of the two, is used in cooked salad
dressings. The two acids do not behave alike, particularly in regard to
curdling. The lemon juice contains citric acid and salts. Vinegar contains
acetic acid, and cider vinegar contains salts. If mustard, sugar, and salt
are kept constant in the recipe given in Experiment 65 with 72 grams of
egg yolk and a total of a cup of liquid, results similar to the following
may be obtained, provided the rate of heating is the same in each case. The
mixture is cooked in the upper part of a double boiler, 12 to 15 minutes
being required for the cooking process.
pW
Coats spoon
Water
about
°c.
'inegar
Vs cup
VS cup
4.2
82 to 85
'inegar
X cup
K cup
3.9
78 to 80
'inegar
K cup
}4 cup
3.6
76 to 78
emon juice
yi cup
% cup
3.6
82 to 85
emon juice
% cup
% cup
?>.?>
78 to 80
emon juice
H cup
Vi cup
2.8
76 to 78
COOKED SALAD DRESSINGS 339
Page 276
Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
at which egg coagulates is one explanation. The proportion of sugar in
butterscotch fillings in different recipes varies from about 15 to 25 per
cent, or 15 to 25 grams per 100 grams of filling. A usual procedure is to
cook the sugar, cornstarch or flour, and scalded milk until thick. This
mixture is often added to the beaten yolks by stirring the hot mixture
into the yolks. Sometimes it is considered that the hot milk mixture will
coagulate or cook the egg yolk sufficiently. However, if the temperature
drops below 80°C. during this procedure and the mixture is not reheated
the egg yolks will not be cooked sufficiently. The filling appears thick at
the time, but on standing it becomes runny. If sugar is added to uncooked
egg yolks, mixed, and left to stand for a few minutes the mixture appears
thinner and more runny. If the yolks are not cooked sufficiently they act
in much the same way, the sugar dissolving in the uncooked yolk and the
filling becoming runny. This has never been observed by the author if
the mixture is heated to a sufficiently high temperature after the egg yolks
are added. The same thing may occur in chocolate and lemon pie fillings,
although this in some instances is due to not using enough starch, the action
of the acid on the smaller amount of starch lessening the stiffness of the
filling. Another possible cause is the tannin of the brow^n sugar, because
the tannin has a dehydrating effect on many sols. But to date it has not
been possible to obtain thinning in the butterscotch filling by adding slightly
more tannin than might be found in the sugar.
Baked products. The addition of sugar to egg in baked products also
tends to delay coagulation or peptize the egg proteins and will be discussed
further under angel cake and cakes containing fats.
Cooked Salad Dressings
Vinegar, lemon juice, or a mixture of the two, is used in cooked salad
dressings. The two acids do not behave alike, particularly in regard to
curdling. The lemon juice contains citric acid and salts. Vinegar contains
acetic acid, and cider vinegar contains salts. If mustard, sugar, and salt
are kept constant in the recipe given in Experiment 65 with 72 grams of
egg yolk and a total of a cup of liquid, results similar to the following
may be obtained, provided the rate of heating is the same in each case. The
mixture is cooked in the upper part of a double boiler, 12 to 15 minutes
being required for the cooking process.
pW
Coats spoon
Water
about
°c.
'inegar
Vs cup
VS cup
4.2
82 to 85
'inegar
X cup
K cup
3.9
78 to 80
'inegar
K cup
}4 cup
3.6
76 to 78
emon juice
yi cup
% cup
3.6
82 to 85
emon juice
% cup
% cup
?>.?>
78 to 80
emon juice
H cup
Vi cup
2.8
76 to 78
COOKED SALAD DRESSINGS 339