FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 274

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Coagulation occurs over a wider range of pH when milk is used with the egg than when distilled water is used. If the pH is adjusted with hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide, it occurs from pH 0.2 to 8.6 or over even wider ranges. The reaction of a milk-egg custard mixture, with no added acid or alkali, is between pH 6 to 7 with an average of about 6.5. This custard mixture was made up in a large quantity, and divided into different portions. To these portions hydrochloric acid or sodium hy- droxide was added to adjust the custard to the desired pH. As the pH was lowered the firmness of the custard increased, until at about pH 5 curdling occurred. All custards with a pH below 5 curdled, the curd be- coming very fine in texture, and forming a dense layer in the bottom of the container. This layer decreased in amount as the pH was lowered below the isoelectric point of egg albumin. At a pH 0.2 the custard was badly charred, and the curd was very slight and fine, the custard quite soft. With increased alkalinity above pH 6.5 the coagulum was less firm. The custards could be placed in the order of acidity by the depth of color: the greater the acidity the lighter the color, the greater the alkalinity the deeper the color. The color ranged from light cream, through yellow, to a deep orange-yellow. Acids. Chick and Martin state that acid solution hastens the second part of the heat-coagulation process, that is, the clotting or coagulation, but does not hasten the first part of the process, the denaturation. They have reported that acid accelerates the rate of coagulation. They state that the influence of acid in accelerating the coagulation rate of a neutral solution is at first relatively small, but with each successive addition of acid its influence becomes disproportionately greater. Loeb using isoelectric crys- talline egg albumin in a 1 per cent solution at a /)H 4.8 found that it coagulated at a temperature not far from 60°C. When acid was added and the /)H lowered to 4.39 the coagulation did not occur until about 80°C. With pH 4.25 coagulation did not occur at 95°C. Fruits that do not have a high acidity such as dates and figs may be used in custards and tend to give a firmer custard, because they lower the /)H slightly. More acid fruits, such as lemon juice, cannot be used in very large quantities. The addition of quite acid fruit juices tends not only to coagulate the casein and albumin but also to hasten curdling. Custards that are made of milk that is slightly sour will curdle more readily during heating. If the acidity has not reached the stage at which curdling occurs, the custard is firmer. Alkalies. Chick and Martin have found that in alkaline solution the second part of the coagulation process, the aggregation or coagulation of CUSTARDS 337 the protein, does not occur. If after heating the alkali is neutralized with acid, coagulation occurs. Thus, if enough of an alkali or of an alkaline salt is added to a custard to render the solution sufficiently alkaline, the custard will not coagulate on heating. But if acidified after heating the custard will **set."