FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 255

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Secondary heating o£ the curd. A secondary heating of the curd is necessary with most hard and semi-hard cheeses. Making Emmenthal in- volves heating to about 55° to 58°C. This heating hastens the driving of the whey from the curd, changes its texture, and often alters the bacterial flora. The heating at high temperatures decreases the moisture content and rennet action is checked if not wholly stopped. Various physical changes take place during this period, the curd becoming tough, firmer, and rubbery. In Swiss and Parmesan cheese it also acquires plasticity. Ripening of cheese. In the process of ripening chemical and physical changes occur In the cheese. It loses Its tough, rubbery qualities and becomes soft and mellow, sometimes almost crumbly. During this change as much as 50 per cent of the nitrogenous constituents may be converted to soluble forms, though the average for hard cheese Is 30 per cent. These changes not only alter the texture and flavor, but also alter the cooking quality of the cheese, the Increased solubility of the proteins Increasing the ease with which the cheese may be blended with eggs, milk, and white sauce. Ripening Is slower at lower temperatures and more rapid at higher ones. Not only enzymes of the milk, if the milk has not been heated to a tem- perature to destroy the enzymes, but bacteria aid in ripening of the cheese and hydrolysis of the proteins. Some bacteria, such as lactic acid, produce PROCESSED CHEESE 313 enzymes that split the protein. More hydrolysis occurs in the softer center of hard cheese than near the rind. Salting affects the rate of ripening by delaying bacterial growth, the proteins of cheese with more salt becoming soluble at a slower rate. Salt penetrates slowly from the rind to the center and aids in drying the cheese. Changes in the fat in the interior of most cheese are usually negligible. For the growth of molds and aerobic bacteria, holes must be punched in the cheese to allow oxygen from the air to penetrate. In the early stages of ripening Emmenthal and Swiss cheeses are soft and become elastic. It is during this stage that the holes or "eyes" are formed from production of gas, principally carbon dioxide, if ripening is normal, but with more hydrogen in abnormal or early ripening. If the cheese becomes too firm before the formation of holes is complete, checks and cracks appear in the cheese. Cheddar cheese in cans. The Bureau of Animal Industry (Rogers) has announced a practical method of canning unripened Cheddar cheese. By this method a one-way or check valve, which holds perfectly against external pressure but with internal pressure allows gases formed during ripening of the cheese to escape, is inserted in the lid of the can. Cheddar cheese has always been pressed in cylindrical forms of varying sizes, but in general rather large. When these large cheeses are cut they lose moisture, so the cut surface dries rapidly. In addition, if the cheese is well ripened, loss occurs through crumbling. In packing cheese in cans, the cheese, after pressing, is cut into the desired shape. Since hydrogen sulfide is often liberated during ripening of cheese, it is preferable to wrap the cheese in parchment and it is necessary to use a lacquered can, for the hydrogen sulfide tends to form a black product with metals such as iron, copper, or lead.