Experimental cookery

if it is a tough cut, and to keep it tender if it is a tender cut. It is desirable in cooking meat to have maximum tenderness of both fibers and connective tissue, so that the meat carves well and cuts easily. Meat cooked so long, or at such a high temperature that the connective tissue is dissolved, is not attractive and the fibers are tough and stringy. As a general rule, it should be cooked in such a way as to retain its nutritive value, i.e., to prevent cooking losses to as great an extent as possible, either dripping losses or destruction of some food constituents by heat. When the drippings are used in gravy or other ways this loss is not a serious one. The flavor and the tenderness of the cooked meat depend to a great degree upon the quality of the meat before cooking, for cooking cannot make a well-flavored piece of meat from one of poor quality and flavor, nor does it always produce a tender piece of meat. However, the method and length of time of cooking may and often do spoil a good piece of meat, yet the method of cooking may improve a poor piece of meat. Browning and thoroughly cooking meat develop a different flavor, just as cooking cabbage a long time develops a characteristic flavor. Many per- sons prefer the development of this flavor. Coagulation of proteins. The heat renders the soluble proteins of meat insoluble, the extent of denaturation depending on the stage of cookery or temperature reached, the time held at this temperature, the />H of the meat, its salt content, its degree of ripeness, and probably other factors. The higher the temperature reached and the longer the meat is held at this temperature, the greater the denaturation. The relation of />H to denaturation has been considered in Chapter I. With increased denatura- tion the meat becomes firmer and denser, with shrinkage in volume. Formation o£ gelatin. After the meat is heated in a moist atmosphere to a definite temperature for a sufficient time the connective tissue dissolves. If the concentration of gelatin in the liquid reaches 1.5 or higher percent- ages, it forms a jelly when cooled. Connective tissue is composed largely of collagen. Collagen is changed to gelatin more rapidly at higher tempera- tures. Smith states that the phosphate ion accelerates the rate at which collagen is changed to gelatin at a given temperature. The addition of acid to meat may also increase the rate of hydrolysis of collagen. Juiciness. Juiciness is given as a desirable quality of cooked meat. Meat loses moisture during cooking, even when cooked submerged in water. The higher the interior temperature to which the meat is cooked, if the composi- tion and cooking conditions are standardized, the less moist the meat. Meat that contains a large amount of fat within and around the muscle fibers may seem juicy because of melting of the fat by heat in cooking. The fibers with a high fat content may also have a high water content, particularly if part of the fat is in an emulsion that will not break with high tempera- tures, thus retaining part of the moisture. Some pieces of meat are apparently far more juicy than others after 220 MEAT