FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 123

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
For theoretical study of pectin jelly Spencer recommends mixing the constituents of the jelly while cold instead of the usual boiling of the sugar and juice, which she calls the hot evaporation method. The reasons for this are four in number. Decomposition of both sugar and pectin occurs during cooking. The proportions of the various constituents change by evaporation, hence it is difficult always to obtain the concentration desired. The precipitating agent sugar has a limited solubility. There is danger of premature precipitation of the pectin if all the cold sugar is added at one time to the hot pectin mixture. For this experimental work dried pectin or a concentrated pectin solution is necessary. Olsen summarizes the theory of jelly formation as follows: Granted that pectin is a negatively charged hydrophilic colloid, the following may be assumed: (1) sugar is the dehydrating agent; (2) the hydrogen-ion con- centration reduces the negative charge on the pectin, thereby permitting the pectin to precipitate and coalesce in the form of a network of insoluble fibers, provided the concentration of sugar is sufficient; (3) the dehydration of the pectin micelles by sugar is not instantaneous but requires time to come to an equilibrium; (4) the rate of hydration and precipitation in- creases in direct ratio as the hydrogen-ion concentration; (5) the maximum jelly strength is reached when the system reaches equilibrium, and depends upon the position of that equilibrium; (6) any component added to a pectin jelly system, including salts, which causes a change in the ultimate jelly 152 SOURCES OF PECTIN IN PLANTS 153 strength of that system may function either (a) by changing the rate of gelation, or (b) by affecting the ultimate jelly structure, or (c) a com- bination of these two. Fruits Used for Jelly For a fruit juice to make a good jelly by boiling with the addition of sugar only, the juice must contain a sufficient amount of a substance called pectin and also sufficient acid. Some fruit juices will not make acceptable jelly by this method because they are deficient in pectin, whereas others do not contain enough acid. In the middle states west of the Mississippi River the fruits most commonly used to make jelly without addition of pectin are apples, crab-apples, blackberries, sour plums, grapes, currants, and gooseberries. During the winter months cranberries are used exten- sively. Cruess and McNair have reported that the following fruit juices con- tain sufficient acid and pectin to produce good jelly: blackberries, logan- berries, Isabella grapes, Tokay grapes, cranberries, currants, whole lemons, and pomelos. They state that oranges have enough pectin but not always enough acid. Apricots and cherries sometimes make jelly but are usually deficient in pectin. Pomegranates and strawberries have enough acid but lack pectin, and pears, peaches, and huckleberries lack both pectin and acid. Citron melons and mission figs have enough pectin but lack acid. They state that lemon is too high in acid to produce a good jelly, but that two whole oranges and one whole lemon make a good combination, the acidity of the lemon allowing for the deficiency in the orange. By the addition of pectin and sugar, all fruit juices, so far as the author knows, can be used for jelly. The Pectic Substances