FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 101

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Volatile sulfur compounds. The volatile sulfur compounds are found in the plants as glucosides. When treated with acid or alkali and when acted upon by enzymes, these glucosides yield a sugar or some closely allied carbohydrate and one or more other substances, frequently phenols, allyl sulfide, or allyl isothiocyanate. Most of the investigations of sulfur- splitting enzymes have been made upon myrosin. The strong flavor of old or stored turnips, rutabagas, and cabbage is probably largely due to setting free of sulfur compounds by enzymes. When they are cooked, plant acids are liberated which cause hydrolysis of the volatile sulfur compounds. In addition, hydrogen sulfide is formed by decomposition of the sulfur com- pounds by heat. The odor of many of these compounds is familiar, those of onions and garlic, cooking cabbage, etc., being typical examples. Allyl isothiocyanate is found in mustard seed. It is prepared commer- cially by macerating the seed, the enzyme then splitting off the sulfur of the glucoside. The oil is then obtained by distillation with steam. Allyl SULFUR COMPOUNDS 127 sulfide IS found in the onion family, and is prepared commercially from garlic. The strong flavor of onions, leeks, and garlic depends upon the concentration of allyl sulfide. These volatile compounds escape from the food more rapidly with rise in temperature and breakdown of the plant cells. Hence, the longer onions, leeks, and garlic are cooked the milder their flavor becomes. Also because finely minced onion has a greater surface area for volatilization to occur than when cut in large pieces, these substances volatilize more rapidly from finely cut pieces. This is why it is preferable to add onion juice, very finely minced onion, or cooked onion to some foods that are not cooked long or that do not reach a high temperature, such as hamburger or stuff- ing for fowl or meat. Large pieces of raw onion in a stuffing produce a very strong onion flavor, more concentrated in some areas than others, instead of a subtle, well-blended flavor, for the stuffing never reaches boil- ing temperature. The amount of onion and/or garlic added, the fineness of division of the pieces, and the length of cooking all affect the flavor of the finished product to which they are added. The flavor of a food like catsup or chili sauce may be ruined by adding a large quantity of onion or garlic in large pieces near the end of the cooking process. The same amount of onion or garlic added in small pieces, or added in large pieces early in the cook- ing process, could blend with, instead of dominate, the flavor of the other ingredients. Sulfur compounds and the cooking o£ vegetables. It is com- monly known that long cooking of some vegetables such as cabbage, turnips, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts develops strong, disagreeable flavors, and the eating of these vegetables may cause discomfort and digestive dis- turbances. The longer cooking and stronger flavor are accompanied by increased acidity of the vegetable. The length of time of cooking for the strong flavor to develop varies with the vegetable, whether the cooking is started in cold or boiling water, and the proportion of vegetable to water.