The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

The typical Basque sauce is Piperrade, "peppery" in translation. Hot and spicy, often enriched by eggs, it makes a piquant vegetable melange. The codfish recipe shows that this cuisine also follows the southern chives-shallot-leek-onion-garlic route. Its most distinguishing characteristic, however, is the use of peppers in everything. A piperrade omelet is smothered in minced sweet peppers and tomatoes lightly browned in olive oil. EGGS BASQUE 4 large green peppers Salt and pepper 4 eggs 2 cups cooked rice 1 cup tomato sauce Parboil the peppers for 5 minutes. Drain, remove skin, cut off the stem end and remove seeds and membranes. Place each pepper in a buttered cup with the cut end up. In each drop an egg and sprinkle with seasoning. Place the cups in a pan of hot water and bake in moderate oven (350°F.) until the eggs are set, about 5 to 10 minutes. When done remove peppers and place in nests of boiled rice. Surround with tomato sauce. Brown gravy or cream sauce may be substituted. This makes 4 servings. Since these highlands have a long and severe winter, nearly everything is pickled, to last out the unproductive season. Pimentos, sliced tomatoes and olives, stoned, as well as all game and fowl go into the confit jar: quail, wild pigeons, goose, duck, chicken and turkey, and many a native recipe calls for a joint from the jar. The Euskarians make their own pate de foie gras, flavored with onion, white wine and brandy. Many dishes are stimulated by burning brandy over them — fish, rabbit, omelet and cheese dishes. One of the favorite fish dishes thus prepared is made with squid. Calamare is the Spanish name for squid, chipirones is the Basque name. Squid and octopus are much the same; the latter has 8 tentacles, while the former has 10. It is interesting to note that these water animals have little sacs containing a black liquid. In life, when attacked, the animal uses a discharge of this dark substance, called "ink," under cover of which it escapes. The Italians and Spaniards are very fond of cooking squid, body, tentacles and ink-sac all together. They think the ink-sac lends piquancy to the dish, but some prefer to have the sac removed. CHIPIRONES A LA GUIPUZCOANE i pound squid 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, chopped "Ink" from squid Dash of salt Dash of cayenne i tablespoon apple brandy 4 to 6 slices toast Dice tentacles, heads and bodies of squid, discarding "bones"; carefully cutting loose the ink sac, intact, for future use. Heat olive oil and slowly fry the squid and onions in it until brown. Rupture the ink sac, add ink, cover and simmer until fish is tender, about 2 hours. Add seasoning and apple brandy. Serve on toast. The brandy may be poured over each serving and burned, if desired. This makes 4 to 6 servings. For Chipirones a la Labourdine, use only head and tentacles of squid, mix with chopped ham, bread crumbs, onion, parsley and minced garlic; fry in plenty of olive oil. Lay this mixture on the "bones," and simmer in olive oil. Take up with a perforated slice, and serve very hot. These dishes from the Basque region bear names from the regional dialect.