The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

The Basques, whose country was anciently called Euskaria, are the oldest and most colorful race in Europe. Living to themselves in the lofty Pyrenees, they have come through almost unspoiled by civilization. Shepherds, sailors, farmers, they are a lusty race, fond of music, wine and good living, as are all highlanders. They carry wine with them wherever they go, in sheepskin bags, slung over the shoulder. When they are thirsty they simply pull the tiny wooden plug from the nozzle, hold it high overhead and aim the jet of wine unerringly into their mouths. Sometimes a bit of wool gets into the wine, or, after a hot march, it takes on a flavor of mutton broth, but they are hardy mountaineers with man-sized thirsts and appetites to keep them well above such petty matters. Although they occupy the borderland between Spain and France, they maintain a cuisine as emphatically their own as are their medieval costumes, ornate and elegant. Natty velvet jackets and knee breeches of silk with silver filigree buttons jangling in bunches from velours vests and ribbon garters are their native garb. Though they combine farming and mountaineering, they are celebrated fisherfolk as well, for the finest fish in Europe are caught in the Biscay Bay, salubrious shellfish, too, crabs, lobsters and sea spiders. Grilled royans on toast is a Basque specialty, and the recipe is simplicity itself: Roll fresh, cleaned sardines in olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill and serve on buttered toast. Royans are small and tender sardines native to the Bay of Biscay, but any sort of sardines, including big California pilchards, are toothsome when grilled and served in this manner. Buttered toast is uncommon in Spain itself, where cows are so scarce that butter has to be imported in tins from Scandinavia, but Basqueland is exceptional in having rich milk for both butter and cheese. Therefore, less olive oil is used than in Andalusia. BASQUE SOUP Potatoes, beans and garlic boiled together. Slices of dry bread spread with mashed potatoes, thickly dusted with grated cheese. These are placed in the soup plates and the puree poured over them. Then a palmful of pitted olives is sprinkled over all. While the local ways of preparing fish are individual, the standard method is to simmer them in scant olive oil, with onion and garlic, spiced with red pepper, garnished with parsley, and served either on bread or buttered toast. Codfish is as popular here as in Portugal, and the following recipe will do either for fresh or salt cod: COD BISCAYENNE 6 shallots, chopped 2 raw potatoes, sliced thin 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 tomatoes, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 green pepper, chopped 2 pounds cod, shredded Salt and pepper 1 cup water Saute shallots and garlic in the olive oil for 5 minutes; do not let them brown. Add cod and mix thoroughly. If using salt cod, allow to soak in cold water several hours before using. Place y2 of the cod mixture in the bottom of a casserole. On top of the fish place a layer of potato and tomato slices and the chopped pepper. Season and cover with remainder of the fish. Add water, cover and bake in a moderate oven (350°F.) for 1 hour. This makes 8 to 10 servings.