353. Points about frying : have the fat deep, do not use
butter. — These experiments show (1) that unless fat
used for frying is hot enough to form a crust on the
food cooked in it, it will soak into the food ; (2) that
so long as it bubbles it is not hot enough to form a
crust ; (3) that anything that cools the fat tends to
make the food greasy ; (4) that the best fat to fry in
is the one that can be made hottest without burning.
Therefore, have the fat deep enough to cover the food^
so that it may be crusted over at once ; see that it is
smoking hot aiid still before putting the food in ; reheat
the fat after each frying ; and do not fry in butter.
Of common fats, butter is the worst for frying, suet
218 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY
(hard fat) from beef, veal, and mutton next better,
drippings better still, and lard best of all. Olive oil,
which may be heated to above 600°, is superior to any
of these. In Southern Europe it is commonly employed
for frying, but in this country is too expensive for such
use.
What reason is there against the use of butter for
frying, besides its low burning-point ?
How TO PREPARE FaT FOR USE
354. Fats are " tried out," or rendered^ to free them
from connective tissue, then clarified to remove water
and impurities. Lard is sold ready for use ; other fat
is usually tried out at home. Suet may be bought for
this purpose, and all scraps of fat, cooked or uncooked,
and drippings from beef, veal, fresh pork, and chicken ^
should be carefully saved. Soup fat and drippings
need only to be clarified ; suet and scraps must first be
tried out.
To try out fat. — Cut the fat into bits, put it into a
pan in the oven with enough cold water to cover it, and
simmer it for several hours. When the fat is melted,
and nearly free from water, strain it, pressing to obtain
all the fat.
To clarify fat. — Melt drippings or tried-out fat, add
to it a few slices of raw potato, and heat slowly in the
1 The flavor of fat from mutton, lamb, duck, goose, and turkey-
prevents their being used in cooking. They may be saved for soap-
grease. The fat from smoked meats may be used for frying, if you do
not object to its taste.
FAT FROM ANIMALS AND OIL FROM PLANTS 219
oven until it ceases to bubble. The potato absorbs
some of the impurities ; most of the rest settle to the
bottom. Strain the fat through cheese-cloth, and let it
stand undisturbed till solid. If stirred, it absorbs
moisture from the air. Since it keeps longer if left
unbroken, it is well to strain it into cups or marmalade
jars, so that a portion may be used without disturbing
the rest.
355. Foods requiring much cooking not suitable for fry-
ing. — Foods suitable for frying are those made of
cooked material or those that require little cooking ;
for example, croquettes and oysters. Most raw food, in
order that the outside may not become too brown before
the inside is cooked, must be put into fat not quite as
hot as it should be to prevent absorption of grease.
Exceptions. — Fish and oysters, being very watery, cool
the fat rapidly, — making it therefore as hot for these
as for cooked articles.
Articles of food to be fried are usually covered with
egg and crumbs, flour, or meal, to protect them from
absorbing fat. Why is egg used for this purpose?
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353. Points about frying : have the fat deep, do not use
butter. — These experiments show (1) that unless fat
used for frying is hot enough to form a crust on the
food cooked in it, it will soak into the food ; (2) that
so long as it bubbles it is not hot enough to form a
crust ; (3) that anything that cools the fat tends to
make the food greasy ; (4) that the best fat to fry in
is the one that can be made hottest without burning.
Therefore, have the fat deep enough to cover the food^
so that it may be crusted over at once ; see that it is
smoking hot aiid still before putting the food in ; reheat
the fat after each frying ; and do not fry in butter.
Of common fats, butter is the worst for frying, suet
218 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY
(hard fat) from beef, veal, and mutton next better,
drippings better still, and lard best of all. Olive oil,
which may be heated to above 600°, is superior to any
of these. In Southern Europe it is commonly employed
for frying, but in this country is too expensive for such
use.
What reason is there against the use of butter for
frying, besides its low burning-point ?
How TO PREPARE FaT FOR USE
354. Fats are " tried out," or rendered^ to free them
from connective tissue, then clarified to remove water
and impurities. Lard is sold ready for use ; other fat
is usually tried out at home. Suet may be bought for
this purpose, and all scraps of fat, cooked or uncooked,
and drippings from beef, veal, fresh pork, and chicken ^
should be carefully saved. Soup fat and drippings
need only to be clarified ; suet and scraps must first be
tried out.
To try out fat. — Cut the fat into bits, put it into a
pan in the oven with enough cold water to cover it, and
simmer it for several hours. When the fat is melted,
and nearly free from water, strain it, pressing to obtain
all the fat.
To clarify fat. — Melt drippings or tried-out fat, add
to it a few slices of raw potato, and heat slowly in the
1 The flavor of fat from mutton, lamb, duck, goose, and turkey-
prevents their being used in cooking. They may be saved for soap-
grease. The fat from smoked meats may be used for frying, if you do
not object to its taste.
FAT FROM ANIMALS AND OIL FROM PLANTS 219
oven until it ceases to bubble. The potato absorbs
some of the impurities ; most of the rest settle to the
bottom. Strain the fat through cheese-cloth, and let it
stand undisturbed till solid. If stirred, it absorbs
moisture from the air. Since it keeps longer if left
unbroken, it is well to strain it into cups or marmalade
jars, so that a portion may be used without disturbing
the rest.
355. Foods requiring much cooking not suitable for fry-
ing. — Foods suitable for frying are those made of
cooked material or those that require little cooking ;
for example, croquettes and oysters. Most raw food, in
order that the outside may not become too brown before
the inside is cooked, must be put into fat not quite as
hot as it should be to prevent absorption of grease.
Exceptions. — Fish and oysters, being very watery, cool
the fat rapidly, — making it therefore as hot for these
as for cooked articles.
Articles of food to be fried are usually covered with
egg and crumbs, flour, or meal, to protect them from
absorbing fat. Why is egg used for this purpose?