Elements of the theory and practice of cookery

economical ; and, if properly cooked, are good eating, better, indeed, than higher-priced cuts badly cooked. The value of any cut depends not alone upon the qual- ity of the edible portion, but also upon the proportion this bears to the refuse (bone, gristle, etc.). For ex- ample, prime ribs are even more expensive than they seem, because the purchaser pays for so much bone. Again, a cheap piece, containing much refuse, may be less economical than a higher-priced one, all of which is eatable. Veal is never economical. Being really im- mature beef, it is dry and poor, both in flavor and in food value, notwithstanding which it is expensive. 312. Meat must be kept to make it tender. — Recently- killed meat is tender, but soon stiffens, owing to the clotting of certain proteids (§ 259), softening so as to be fit to eat only after being "hung" for some time. Beef should be kept at least for three weeks, mutton longer. 313. The food value of meat. — Because we have teeth adapted to chewing both animal and vegetable food,^ and digestive juices capable of dissolving both, we be- lieve that a mixed diet is our natural one. ' In almost every part of the world flesh is eaten, in some places the flesh of animals we should not think of using for food. So much is taste a matter of custom that the idea of eating horseflesh is unpleasant to most people who have never tried it; yet horseflesh is perfectly 1 Vegetable food means all food from plant sources. N 178 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY wholesome, and in some parts of Europe is commonly- sold for food. Practically all the proteids in meat are assimilated,^ but one-third or more of the proteids of vegetable food goes to waste in the body. This is accounted for by the closer likeness of animal food to the tissues of the human body. Beef and mutton are grain and grass made partly ready for us by the ox and the sheep, whose digestive organs are better fitted than ours to take care of a purely vegetable diet. Meat-eating nations surpass in vigor those that live mainly on fruit and grains. American and English people, however^ are in more dan- ger of eating too much meat than too little. Meat three times a day is probably unnecessary for any one, and hurtful except to people actively working or exercis- ing. Since only a certain amount can be made use of, no matter how much is swallowed, the system is overtaxed in getting rid of the surplus. Take care, therefore, that the meat bill is not out of proportion to other household expenses, and that the children are not made cross, and the men in the family dyspeptic, by too free use of this concentrated, stimulating food. 314. Red meat, such as beef and mutton, is more stimu- lating than the ivhite meat of veal and poultry. Beef is the most nutritious of meats; mutton comes next, veal and lamb being less nutritious than the flesh of full-grown creatures. Corned meats lose in food value by the drawing 1 Assimilation is the taking up of digested food into the tissues ; assimilate means literally " to make like." THE FLESH OF ANIMALS 179 out of their juice into the brine ; but dried or smoked meat, pound for pound, contains more nutriment than fresh meat.