Elements of the theory and practice of cookery

the air. The tenderer cuts are fine-grained and well- mottled with fat ; a thick layer of firm, light straw-col- ored fat extends over the rib and loin cuts ; the kidney suet is white and crumbly. Flabby, dark, or coarse beef with yellow fat is poor ; if it has little fat, it is from an old or under-fed creature. 267. The characteristics of good mutton and lamb are similar to those of good beef, excepting tliat the lean is lighter-colored, and the fat whiter. 268. The best cuts for broiling are steaks from the loin of beef (sliort, porter-house, and sirloin), and rib or loin chops of mutton and lamb. (For other broiling pieces, see table, pp. 180-187.) Directions for broiling Beefsteak 269. Time. — For a steak one inch thick, five or six minutes; one and one-half inches thick, eight to ten minutes. Steak properly broiled is puffy from the expansion into steam of the imprisoned moisture, well browned on the outside, and juicy and red, without being purplish, to within one-eighth of an inch of the surface. Steak less than one inch thick loses so much water by evapo- ration that the inside is dry before the outside is brown. (^Pid a platter to ivarm before beginning to broil the steak.') (1) To broil by a coal fire. — Have the coals glowing hot, without fiame or smoke. Grease a double broiler with beef fat, place the steak in it, and hold it near the coals wliile counting ten slowly. Turn the broiler, and hold the other side down for the same length of 150 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY time. Continue to turn the meat about once in ten seconds for about one minute, or until it is well seared ; then hold it farther from the fire, turning occasionally until the surface is brown. ^ Just before taking it from the fire sprinkle with salt and pejDper, turning each side once more to the heat to cook the seasoning in. When the steak is cooked, lift it on to the platter, spread both sides with butter, or with Maitre d' Hotel butter, gar- nish, if you like, with water-cress and slices of lemon, or with parsley, and serve without delay. 270. (2) To broil by gas. — Have the broiling oven hot. Lay the meat in a double broiler or directly on the rack over the pan. In the latter case turn the meat with two spoons to avoid piercing it. Proceed as in broiling over coals, except that the meat requires turning only three or four times. Turn down the gas and lower the pan, if necessary, after the meat is seared. 271. Lamb and mutton chops are broiled like beefsteak, allowing six to eight minutes, according to thickness. Mutton chops may be slightly red in the middle ; lamb chops are usually preferred less rare. Tomato Sauce or green peas may be served with chops. 272. Pan-broiling. — Meat cooked on a pan may be almost as well-flavored and juicy as broiled meat, if properly done. 1 Reasons for turning the meat: 1. To prevent the escape of juice. The meat must be turned just before the juice forced out of the tissues nearest the heat begins to escape from the upper side ; if it overflows, it will drip and be lost. 2. To insure even cooking. THE FLESH OF ANIMALS 151