Elements of the theory and practice of cookery

1 Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful of baking-soda are equal to about three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. When pure baking-powder can be obtained, it is wiser, as well as more convenient, to use it ; because the housekeeper cannot proportion the soda and cream of tartar as accurately as does the manufacturing chemist, and any excess of either is not only wasted, but may be in- jurious to the health. Soda, since it gives off some carbon dioxide when wet, even if no acid is present, might be used alone to lighten bread, did it not when so used make the bread yellow, unpalatable, and unwholesome. Baking-soda is made by passing carbon dioxide over ordinary sal-soda. Cream of tartar is an acid salt prepared from the crystals called "argols" that form on the inside of wine-vats and wine-casks. 2 Rochelle salts is a soluble, white powder, harmless in small quan- tities. 3 Enough moisture to start this action is, however, readily absorbed by the baking-powder from the air. A little cornstarch is therefore added by the manufacturer to take up moisture and keep the powder dry. A solution of baking-powder may be tested for a starch (a) by boiling and (6) with iodine. 110 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY rapidly, filling the batter or dough with bubbles, and making it rise higher and higher. As the gas expands, the walls of the bubbles stretch and become thin. Just at this stage, if the oven is right, the heat sets the mix- ture and imprisons the gas. In too hot an oven a crust forms before all the gas is set free ; in too cool an oven the bubbles break and the gas escapes. In either case the result is heav}^ bread. Use one to one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking-pow- der to one cupful of flour. If more than this is required, the baking-powder is of poor quality. The more air there is beaten into the mixture, the smaller will be the quantity of baking-powder required. Bread or cake made with " generous " measures of baking-powder is dry, and owing to the excess of Rochelle salts produced, unwholesome. Helpful Hints about mixing and baking Quick Breads 202. 1. As a rule sift the baking-powder with the flour ; in a very thin batter it may be sprinkled in after the other ingredients have been mixed, provided the whole mixture is then well beaten. 2. A quick bread should be quickly mixed, and put into the oven without delay. This is most important in the case of thin batters, those raised wholly with air, and those raised by using soda and sour milk, or any other liquid acid, which sets free at once almost all the available gas. BREAD 111 3. The proper degree of heat for baking must be learned by experience. In general, doughs require a hotter oven than batters do. Too great heat causes bubbles of air or gas to burst and run together, which is undesirable when a fine-grained bread is desired. Popovers, when baked, should be hollow shells. Bake these, therefore, in a hot oven. 4. Set the pan at first on the bottom of the oven ; after the bread has risen it may be placed on the rack to brown the top. 5. Open and close the oven door gently — " as if there were a baby inside," — and avoid moving the pan while the bread is rising. A draft of cold air will cause the bubbles to collapse ; a sudden jar will break them. In either case the bread will fall. Recipes ^ Plain Muffins