FoodNet

Elements of the theory and practice of cookery

1901

Page 140

Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Section 3. Cocoa and Chocolate 500. The cocoa bean ; growing and making it ready for market. — Cracked and powdered cocoa,^ all chocolate ^ 1 A confusing use of terms has resulted from retaining both the name chocolate., by which plant and beverage were known to the BEVERAGES: TEA, COFFEE, COCOA 315 preparations, and cocoa shells are products of the seeds of the chocolate tree, a native of the tropic countries of America. These seeds, called cocoa heans^ which are about the size of almonds, lie surrounded by fibrous pulp, in a brownish yellow pod about a foot long. When fresh, they are whitish in color, and ver}^ bitter. The pods as they ripen are cut off with knives fastened on poles, and left on the ground to dry for twenty-four hours. The seeds are then taken out and thrown into heaps to ferment for from two to five days. During this process they darken in color, and become milder in taste. After this they are roasted, further to improve their flavor; but, instead of being ready for use, as coffee then is, cocoa must go through the hands of the manufacturer before reaching the cook. 501. How chocolate and cocoa are manufactured. — In the factory the beans are cracked into the irregular bits we know as cocoa nibs or cracked cocoa. The papery shells are winnowed out to be sold by themselves, while the nibs are either put up for market, or undergo fur- ther preparation. Cocoa beans contain so much fat that when ground they become not powder, but paste. The cocoa paste, run into molds and cooled, forms cakes of plain chocolate ; if flavored and sweetened before being molded, it forms sweet chocolate. Breakfast cocoa is made by extracting from cracked natives of Mexico, and cacao, the name given them by the Spanish. The chocolate tree belongs to a different family from the cocoanut palm. 316 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY cocoa, by means of powerful presses, a large proportion of its fat, and grinding to powder the dry substance left. The fat is sold as cocoa-butter, for making per- fumes and ointments, and for other purposes. Dutch manufacturers, instead of removing the fat, emulsify it (§ 179) by the addition of alkalies. Their method is not, however, altogether desirable, and it is probable that no imported cocoa or chocolate excels that made by leading American firms. 502. Composition and food value. — Linnaeus, the great botanist, named cocoa theohroma^ "food of the gods." Roasted cocoa contains about 50 per cent of fat, 15 to 18 per cent of nitrogenous compounds, and 10 to 13 per cent of starch. Note fat globules on the surface of chocolate that has been standing. Boil one tea- spoonful of breakfast cocoa with one-quarter cupful of water, and test -it with iodine for starch. It has also a small amount of theobromine, a substance similar to caffeine, but so much less powerful that neither cocoa nor chocolate has the stimulating effect of tea and coffee on the nerves. Unlike tea and coffee, cocoa preparations are food, whether eaten or taken in the form of a drink, since, even in the latter case, the cocoa itself, not merely an infusion of it, is swallowed. For children and young people it is the best of hot drinks. People who do not like prepared cocoas often like cracked cocoa ; while even cocoa shells alone makes an economical beverage, recommended particularly for the sick. BEVERAGES: TEA, COFFEE, COCOA 317