Culinary jottings

pudding." This is sometimes nice, and sometimes very nasty. To be nice, a good deal of butter {good butter please, not four-annas-a-cup-composition, — " I beg your pardon,") is necessary with, the mashed potato, with a little cream, or some fresh milk helped up with the yolk of an egg, and a few drops of anchovy sauce ; Ramasamy being at the same time entreated not to make the mould into a pretty pattern with quarters of hard-boiled egg, &c., an effect which cannot be achieved without free use of his finger and thumb. " Twice-laid," as this dish is called at Home, cannot be sent up better than in a simple mould like mashed potato, streaked with a fork outside, and baked till it takes a pale brown tint. Chopped hardboiled egg may be stirred into the fish and potatoes with advantage. The hest fish pudding is that made of pieces of cooked fish steamed in a savoury custard. This is turned out like a pudding, and served with any nice fish sauce. Kedgeree (kitchri) of the English type is composed of boiled rice, chopped hard-boiled egg, cold minced fish, and a lump of fresh butter : these are all tossed together in the frying-pan, flavoured with pepper, salt, and any minced garden herb such as cress, parsley, or marjoram, and served smoking hot. If your cook be a good hand at puff-pastry, you may have worse fare at luncheon than petits pates of minced fish. The salpicon must be diluted with a rich sauce, and flavoured with whatever herb you like best. A far-offthought of celery is not to be despised. For the sauce in which you mean to re-cook fish, do not forget the bones and trimmings. A broth made of fish bones, with a few pepper corns, a sliced sweet onion, a bit of celery, a piece of lime peel, and an anchovy instead of salt, yields you a capital liquid which, when strained and worked up with melted butter and flour, generally produces a favourable impression. The chief features to be noted in cooking hashes and MINCES are much the same. Pi^pare the meat, after having carefully cut off all browned parts, as you may desire. [Make the best broth you can with the tinmming-s and I bones ; if you have any stock or gi'avy so much the better ; j thicken slightly, and flavour this according to your taste, and the materials that may be within your reach ,- strain it if necessary, add a dessert-spoonful of Madeira, or Marsala, [and then warm up your meat. A mince, or a hash, should ,'be allowed to stand in its sauce, with a gentle heat under the sauce-pan, for as long a time as can be allowed ; when rcrpiired for the table, increase the heat, and the moment (liqueur steams the di.sli is ready for service.