Instead of using a pie-dish the puree may be baked in some well-buttered coquille shells, and served upon a napkin. VEGETABLES— CONCLUDED. 149 Another artistic raethod of doinsr tliis vetretable is this : — Cut half a dozen large ones, after thej have been three parts boiled, into long strips about a quarter of an inch thick, dip them, in the batter I describe elsewhere, and fry them a golden tint : these fritters are excellent ; you can order them alone as an entremets, or pile them in a pyramid as the central garnish of an entree. Jerusalem artichokes can be served in a mould, iced, with a mayonnaise sauce, or hot with a Parmesan, or rich white sauce. For the mould, follow this recipe : — Two pounds of the artichokes✪ Baked Jerusalem Artichokes boiled in milk : half a pint of cream : four eggs : pepper and salt. Mash the artichokes, and pass them through the hair sieve, add the cream, the eggs well beaten up whites and all, and season with pepper and salt. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and steam it for one hour. Turn it out, and garnish it with tomato puree, Parmesan sauce, or a rich veloiite. Or : — ice the mould, and turn it out, sending it up with a cold mayonnaise sauce in a boat. The name of this excellent entremets here is " Topinamhours a la Chetput,^* but it is commonly called creme de topinamiours. Undeniably good as the Jerusalem artichoke is, it is, of course, inferior to the Globe or leafy kind (articliaut) . These are properly considered the choicest delicacies of the Neilgherry market by many people. A globe artichoke, like a cabbage, must be well soaked in salt and water to get rid of the insects which may be hidden between the leaves. Then it must be set head downwards in boiling water, with soda and salt, and boiled till the leaves part easily from the core. When done, you must drain it, and dish it hot : a little " Dutch sauce," in which a few drops of anchovy vinegar, or lime-juice have been introduced, forms an agreeable accompaniment. 150 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. There are several high class ways of ser\'ing globe arti- chokes which I, of course, dedicate to my readers who happen to be staying on the Hills. First let me give yon dii'ections for the trimming of an artichoke secundum artem. Place the raw vegetable bottom downwards on a board, and with a sharp knife at once cnt it straight down, dividing it in half ; then divide each half so obtained so that you have four quarters : next pare out the ' choke' which adheres to each quarter, as you would core an apple, and trim off the leaves leaving about an eighth of an inch of them unsevered and adhering to the trimmed quarters. Drop each piece as you trim it into cold water in which a lime has been squeezed, or a table-spoonful of vinegar poured, to prevent its turning black, and when you have prepared enough for the dish you require, throw the quarters into boiling water witli a dessert-spoonful of salt, and a spoonful of vinegar ; and in about fifteen minutes, when nearly done, lift them out and drain them. They may be now finished off in these several ways :— 1. — As " beigiiets" : — by being cut into slices dipped in batter, and fried in boiling fat till of a bright golden tint. 2. — Or, — " an sauce blanche'^ or " bechamel,^' in which they should be gently simmered.

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Instead of using a pie-dish the puree may be baked in some well-buttered coquille shells, and served upon a napkin. VEGETABLES— CONCLUDED. 149 Another artistic raethod of doinsr tliis vetretable is this : — Cut half a dozen large ones, after thej have been three parts boiled, into long strips about a quarter of an inch thick, dip them, in the batter I describe elsewhere, and fry them a golden tint : these fritters are excellent ; you can order them alone as an entremets, or pile them in a pyramid as the central garnish of an entree. Jerusalem artichokes can be served in a mould, iced, with a mayonnaise sauce, or hot with a Parmesan, or rich white sauce. For the mould, follow this recipe : — Two pounds of the artichokes boiled in milk : half a pint of cream : four eggs : pepper and salt. Mash the artichokes, and pass them through the hair sieve, add the cream, the eggs well beaten up whites and all, and season with pepper and salt. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and steam it for one hour. Turn it out, and garnish it with tomato puree, Parmesan sauce, or a rich veloiite. Or : — ice the mould, and turn it out, sending it up with a cold mayonnaise sauce in a boat. The name of this excellent entremets here is " Topinamhours a la Chetput,^* but it is commonly called creme de topinamiours. Undeniably good as the Jerusalem artichoke is, it is, of course, inferior to the Globe or leafy kind (articliaut) . These are properly considered the choicest delicacies of the Neilgherry market by many people. A globe artichoke, like a cabbage, must be well soaked in salt and water to get rid of the insects which may be hidden between the leaves. Then it must be set head downwards in boiling water, with soda and salt, and boiled till the leaves part easily from the core. When done, you must drain it, and dish it hot : a little " Dutch sauce," in which a few drops of anchovy vinegar, or lime-juice have been introduced, forms an agreeable accompaniment. 150 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. There are several high class ways of ser\'ing globe arti- chokes which I, of course, dedicate to my readers who happen to be staying on the Hills. First let me give yon dii'ections for the trimming of an artichoke secundum artem. Place the raw vegetable bottom downwards on a board, and with a sharp knife at once cnt it straight down, dividing it in half ; then divide each half so obtained so that you have four quarters : next pare out the ' choke' which adheres to each quarter, as you would core an apple, and trim off the leaves leaving about an eighth of an inch of them unsevered and adhering to the trimmed quarters. Drop each piece as you trim it into cold water in which a lime has been squeezed, or a table-spoonful of vinegar poured, to prevent its turning black, and when you have prepared enough for the dish you require, throw the quarters into boiling water witli a dessert-spoonful of salt, and a spoonful of vinegar ; and in about fifteen minutes, when nearly done, lift them out and drain them. They may be now finished off in these several ways :— 1. — As " beigiiets" : — by being cut into slices dipped in batter, and fried in boiling fat till of a bright golden tint. 2. — Or, — " an sauce blanche'^ or " bechamel,^' in which they should be gently simmered.

Culinary jottings