It is needless to
say that game is ruthlessly spoiled by this trick of the
kitchen, and even the chicken destined for a curry is
robbed of half its flavour by being scalded first. The
practice is, of course, the offspring of idleness, — a sub-
terfuge to escape trouble.
I would also point out that the common way of killing
poultry in this country is inhuman, and, in a culinary
point of view, utterly wrong. Setting aside the cruelty of
cutting a fowl's throat, and throwing it on the ground to
bleed to death in agony, what an idiotic thing it is to
waste the very part of the bird from which its gravy, and
juiciness are derived ! White meats are bled in England
simply to produce the necessary tint, but they lose much
of their nutritious quality by the process. They, how-
ever, can afford to do so. Our poorly flavoured birds can
ill endure the loss of an atom of the richness that they
ROASTING AND BRAISING.
113
may possess. I maintain, therefore, that a merciful, and
instantaneous death, by a heavy blow from a wooden
mallet, would be pleasanter for the fowl, and far better
for us : — the blow should be given on the back of the
head.
Besides those I have mentioned there are still two evil
practices to be noted to which ^N'ative cooks are prone.
The first, is that of parboiling joints and poultry before
roasting them: the second, is that of keeping joints, &c.,
far too long on the spit. As a rule, Ramasamy commences
operations much too soon, and then keeps the meat on
the spit before a low fire until it is wanted. Strict orders
should be issued to prevent the first of these errors, and a
table, showing the time that various joints require in
roasting properly, should be hung up in the kitchen to
prevent the second.
If the spit be protected from draughts with a screen,
and the fire evenly maintained, and sufficiently brisk for
the operation in hand —
A large turkey, 8 1
tbs. wi
1 take
an lionr and three-quarters.
A hen-tnrkej', 3^
fts.
>»
forty-five minutes.
A capon, 4 fts.
...
,,
fifty rninntes.
A fowl, 3 as.
...
»>
half an hour.
A pigeon
...
>»
a quarter of an hour.
A duck
...
j»
twenty-five minutes.
A goose, 6 lbs.
...
>>
an hour and a half.
A bare
...
»
half an hour.
A partridge ...
...
>j
a quarter of an hour.
A snipe
...
>)
teii minutes.
A florican or pheasant
j>
half an hour.
A saddle of mntto
n, 7 lbs
• >>
an hoar and a half.
A sirloin of beef
do.
»
an hour and three-quarters.
A loin of pork, 3 fts.
M
fifty miuufces.
A loin of mutton,
3 lbs.
*>
thirty-five minutes.
— ♦
Boiling and Steaming.
I OILING," says the G. C, " is one of the simplest
and most economical modes of preparing food.
Meat loses less weight in boiling than in any
process of cooking, and the water it has been boiled in can
always be turned to good account ; besides which, although
it may be an open question whether boiled meat is more
nutritious than roast or boiled meat, it is beyond dispute
more wholesome and easily digested,"
Under the head of " soup-making" I have already dis-
cussed the method of boiling meat required for soup : the
^^ pof-au-feii" being my example of how meat should be
treated when the object is to extract its juices. We must
now consider what has to be done in preparing boiled
meat for the table, and note where the two processes differ.
Page 64
Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
It is needless to say that game is ruthlessly spoiled by this trick of the kitchen, and even the chicken destined for a curry is robbed of half its flavour by being scalded first. The practice is, of course, the offspring of idleness, — a subterfuge to escape trouble.
I would also point out that the common way of killing poultry in this country is inhuman, and, in a culinary point of view, utterly wrong. Setting aside the cruelty of cutting a fowl's throat, and throwing it on the ground to bleed to death in agony, what an idiotic thing it is to waste the very part of the bird from which its gravy, and juiciness are derived ! White meats are bled in England simply to produce the necessary tint, but they lose much of their nutritious quality by the process. They, however, can afford to do so. Our poorly flavoured birds can ill endure the loss of an atom of the richness that they
may possess. I maintain, therefore, that a merciful, and instantaneous death, by a heavy blow from a wooden mallet, would be pleasanter for the fowl, and far better for us : — the blow should be given on the back of the head.
Besides those I have mentioned there are still two evil practices to be noted to which Native cooks are prone. The first, is that of parboiling joints and poultry before roasting them: the second, is that of keeping joints, &c., far too long on the spit. As a rule, Ramasamy commences operations much too soon, and then keeps the meat on the spit before a low fire until it is wanted. Strict orders should be issued to prevent the first of these errors, and a table, showing the time that various joints require in roasting properly, should be hung up in the kitchen to prevent the second.
If the spit be protected from draughts with a screen, and the fire evenly maintained, and sufficiently brisk for the operation in hand —
[illustration: roasting time table]
A hen-tnrkej', 3^
fts.
>»
forty-five minutes.
A capon, 4 fts.
...
,,
fifty rninntes.
A fowl, 3 as.
...
»>
half an hour.
A pigeon
...
>»
a quarter of an hour.
A duck
...
j»
twenty-five minutes.
A goose, 6 lbs.
...
>>
an hour and a half.
A bare
...
»
half an hour.
A partridge ...
...
>j
a quarter of an hour.
A snipe
...
>)
teii minutes.
A florican or pheasant
j>
half an hour.
A saddle of mntto
n, 7 lbs
• >>
an hoar and a half.
A sirloin of beef
do.
»
an hour and three-quarters.
A loin of pork, 3 fts.
M
fifty minutes.
A loin of mutton,
3 lbs.
*>
thirty-five minutes.
— ♦
Boiling and Steaming.
I OILING," says the G. C, " is one of the simplest and most economical modes of preparing food. Meat loses less weight in boiling than in any process of cooking, and the water it has been boiled in can always be turned to good account ; besides which, although it may be an open question whether boiled meat is more nutritious than roast or boiled meat, it is beyond dispute more wholesome and easily digested,"
Under the head of " soup-making" I have already discussed the method of boiling meat required for soup : the ^^ pof-au-feii" being my example of how meat should be treated when the object is to extract its juices. We must now consider what has to be done in preparing boiled meat for the table, and note where the two processes differ.