If unable to follow the rules of the revised menu accurate-
ly, owing to an indifferent market, or some other unavoida-
ble reason, the wise dinner-giver should fall back upon the
older form, and be contented with a less pretentious festival.
The superiority of the new order of things consists in a
more artistic distribution of light and shadow. If we rob
the picture of an effective ray of sunshine here, and forget
a judicious touch of shadow there, we can hardly complain
if our efforts result in disappointment.
At the commencement of these remarks, I spoke of the
economy of time in serving a dinner — a subject which, I
am sure, every earnest follower of reform will allow, should
command our closest attention. Of the two menus I have
spoken of, the older form would perhaps seem to be the
quicker served, and in establishments where the new system
has not been long in practice, I certainly have observed that
the dinner was a little too long. I, however, attribute this
to the novelty of the service, which at first very naturally
perplexes servants who have long been accustomed to a
different method. When once understood and generally
adopted, I do not think that the new arrangement will be
found longer than the old.
A good deal of time can obviously be saved if the giver
of the feast be mindful of the importance of that desider-
atum. The releve, for instance, should undoubtedly be
carved at the huffet, and each portion should be sent round
with its accompanying vegetable also helped at the side
table. I have seen a sliced fillet of beef handed round a
10 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS.
table of eighteen people, with vegetables following it, and a
large dish containing slices of a saddle of mutton garnished
with divers vegetables, also carried round. The waste of
time, not to mention the positive nuisance of such a method
of service, need scarcely be dilated upon.
At a large party I would always hand round the entremets
de legume with the rut, and in composing the dinner, I
would select the entremets so as to harmonize with the roast
game or poultry — -petits jpois au beurre with wild duck
or teal, epinards a la creme with quails, &c., &c.
If the essential need of brisk service be kept in view,
people who have declared themselves in favour of the new
form of menu, and are determined to carry it out correctly,
ought not only to deserve but to command success ; while
those who have already achieved a reputation with the
older one, will do well not to bid adieu to a system which, if
somewhat less artistic, provides, at all events, a very reliable
and decidedly enjoyable way of entertaining their friends.
But in either case you cannot make your dinner too
simple in detail, and the fewer servants you employ to
carry it out the better. How distressing it is to see a herd
of attendants, mobbing each other like a scared flock of
sheep, at a time when everything should be as orderly,
and as quiet as possible. To ensure calm service, pare
down the number of your dishes to the fewest possible,
and for eight guests never allow more than four servants,
besides youi^ butler, to attend the table.
Page 6
Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
If unable to follow the rules of the revised menu accurately, owing to an indifferent market, or some other unavoidable reason, the wise dinner-giver should fall back upon the older form, and be contented with a less pretentious festival. The superiority of the new order of things consists in a more artistic distribution of light and shadow. If we rob the picture of an effective ray of sunshine here, and forget a judicious touch of shadow there, we can hardly complain if our efforts result in disappointment.
At the commencement of these remarks, I spoke of the economy of time in serving a dinner — a subject which, I am sure, every earnest follower of reform will allow, should command our closest attention. Of the two menus I have spoken of, the older form would perhaps seem to be the quicker served, and in establishments where the new system has not been long in practice, I certainly have observed that the dinner was a little too long. I, however, attribute this to the novelty of the service, which at first very naturally perplexes servants who have long been accustomed to a different method. When once understood and generally adopted, I do not think that the new arrangement will be found longer than the old.
A good deal of time can obviously be saved if the giver of the feast be mindful of the importance of that desideratum. The releve, for instance, should undoubtedly be carved at the buffet, and each portion should be sent round with its accompanying vegetable also helped at the side table. I have seen a sliced fillet of beef handed round a
table of eighteen people, with vegetables following it, and a large dish containing slices of a saddle of mutton garnished with divers vegetables, also carried round. The waste of time, not to mention the positive nuisance of such a method of service, need scarcely be dilated upon.
At a large party I would always hand round the entremets de legume with the rot, and in composing the dinner, I would select the entremets so as to harmonize with the roast game or poultry — petits pois au beurre with wild duck or teal, epinards a la creme with quails, &c., &c.
If the essential need of brisk service be kept in view, people who have declared themselves in favour of the new form of menu, and are determined to carry it out correctly, ought not only to deserve but to command success ; while those who have already achieved a reputation with the older one, will do well not to bid adieu to a system which, if somewhat less artistic, provides, at all events, a very reliable and decidedly enjoyable way of entertaining their friends.
But in either case you cannot make your dinner too simple in detail, and the fewer servants you employ to carry it out the better. How distressing it is to see a herd of attendants, mobbing each other like a scared flock of sheep, at a time when everything should be as orderly, and as quiet as possible. To ensure calm service, pare down the number of your dishes to the fewest possible, and for eight guests never allow more than four servants, besides your butler, to attend the table.