Culinary jottings

duces the poultice I liave condenmed, and tlie spoonful of cream, must be added if you desire success. This sauce richly deserves the trouble I have prescribed, and it will be found in the end economical, for by its aid a carefully-roasted fowl provides an enjoyable meal ; whilst fillets of partridges, or chicken, bread-crumbed, nicely fried, and garnished with a crisp curl or two of fried bacon, assume at once a superior character. A young pigeon, split, and grilled over a fast fire, besprinkled with fried bread-crumbs, and assisted by good bread-sauce, forms a nice luncheon for a lady whose husband's days are spent at office, or for a convalescent beginning to mend after a long illness. To continue simple sauces : — that known as Sauce an pauvre liomme is produced by first frying a minced onion in a little butter until it assumes a golden brown tint, and then pouring in a little broth made from scraps, with a tea-spoonful of vinegar : you must give this a boil, and then strain it by degrees into another sauce-pan containing melted butter and flour ; work this well with a wooden spoon and add a pinch of salt, one of sugar, a little pepper, and some minced parsley. Dutch sauce as eaten in Holland, the veritable ' Hollandaise,' is butter plainly melted in a sauce-pan, flavoured with a little pepper, a little salt, and the squeeze of a lemon ; this is allowed to settle over the fire, and is then poured free from the sediment at the bottom of the pan, into a piping hot metal sauce-boat. This sauce is admirable with fish, asparagus, and all green vegetables ; you must, of course, substitute lime for lemon, and have butter enough to spare for the undertaking. I strongly advise my fortunate friends on the Neilgherries to make this sauce (a little goes a long way mind) for their globe arti- chokes ; one table- spoonful is enough for one artichoke, and the plates should be really hot.* Hollandaise made with eggs is known abroad as Hollandaise jaune. *' Horse-radish sauce" is the gi'and standard adjunct to our national food, " the roast beef of old England," and beef in India cries out for help far more piteously than its rich relation far away. Horse-radish grows well at Ootacamund, and I once grew some with success at Bangalore, but the scraped root of the moringa, or " drum-stick" tree, provides so good a substitute that we may rest contented with a sauce thus composed : — Scrape as finely as you can a cupful of the root shavings, simmer them in half a pint of chicken broth ; when done, thicken the broth custardwise with the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar ; add popper, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg, and serve in a sauce-boat. A richer recipe suggests the addition of a coffee-cupful of cream wdth the yolks of the eggs, and then to let the sauce remain on the fire en bain-marie, stirring well until it is very hot (but not boiling) and serving it in a hot sauce-boat. The cold form of this sauce is perhaps the easiest, and I think as nice as any t : — you simply rasp the moringa, or horse-radish root, till you have a cupful of fine scrapings, and mingle them with an ordinary mayonnaise, or tartare sauce, iced. Cream is, of course, a great addition, but the usual mixture of eggs, oil, mustard, and vinegar, will give you a good result.