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Culinary jottings

1885

Page 41 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Calves' liver cut into dice, and fried with some shallot in the pan in which some fat bacon has been melted, then set to get cold, and pounded in the mortar with some cold veal,* forms the well-known minced meat which surrounds a. pate defoie grr as and all French pates. The frying-pan should be rubbed with garlic before operations are com- menced, and the minced onion must go in with the liver. If you add to the mixture when pounded the minced trim- mings of any truffles you may have been using, the flavour will be exactly that of the pate. A little jar of this com- position, made at home, will be found well worth the * Use the white breast-meat of a cold roast chicken if you cannot get veal iu this country. The melted bacon must be pounded with the liver. — W. ENTREES— CONCLUDED. 71 trouble it costs to make, when you are preparing (say) a dish of croqiiettes de volaille and want to improve the flavour of them. The hints I have already given regarding the bread- crumbing of mutton cutlets, hold good with reference to the crumbing of croquettes. If possible, indeed, you should be more particular in preparing your crumbs. Bread crisped in the oven and then pounded in the mortar pro- duces the chapelure used by French cooks. The sauces that should accompany this kind of entree require the utmost study, and will be treated of here- after. Rissoles, and rissolettes are very tasty if well done, and served hot. They may be described as a savoury salpicon, or mince, divided into small portions, each of which should be enclosed in little wrappers of delicate pastryRissoles : these, pinched closely all round, should be fried a golden yellow in abundance of boiling fat. They are then served dry on a napkin, garnished with crisply fried curled parsley. Cassolettes are little drums of potato or rice, hollowed out, filled with a delicate mince, and capped with either a cover made of the same substance as the caseCassolettes, or with a curl of crisply fried bacon, a turned olive, or a slice of truffle. Boudins are preparations of pounded meats steamed, and quenelles somewhat similar in composition but poached. Recipes will be found for each of these methods of cookery in the menus. Touching the highest class of entrees, it is impossible to say very much in the way of advice. You must submit to a little more expense than you did in classes one and two. Butter, cream, truffles, mushrooms, special gravy meat, Ac, must not be shirked, but be given to the cook with a 72 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. liberal hand. As your Gouffe bids you, so must you proceed without a murmur.