Culinary jottings

Although many people must be aware that there arc numerous ways of cooking eggs nicely, why is it that so few attempt to go beyond the ordinary methods which have obtained in English kitchens since good king Arthur ruled the land ? It is the same with maccaroni : how rare a thing it is to see that most invaluable article of food dressed otherwise than in the time-honoured baking-dish. And, in the many uses of cheese, what ignorance we betray ! Whether taken independently, and made the most of alone, or combined together, and treated in some artistic fashion, we possess in these three things the elements of certain dainty dishes which, in their way, are excellent. Singularly adapted to the climate in which we spend our exile, and inexpensive, they are at the same time invested with a certain amount of refinement that to many people is no slight recommendation. The accessories which are more or less necessary in this branch of cookery are : — good butter, cream occasionally, a little clear gravy, herbs and onion as used for omelette making, the tomato, cold vegetables, and carefully sifted bread-crumbs. The remains of fish, game, and poultry ; grated ham, corned beef, and tongue, and slices of sausages, may be also occasionally made use of by an ingenious cook. Let us first consider a few ways of serving eggs : — " (Eufs sur le plaf : — This simple, yet capital method of doing eggs in a hurry, should be noted. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in an omelette pan, and slip two eggs into it, carefully avoiding breaking the yolks ; let them set in the butter, as a poached egg sets in water ; the moment they are sufficiently firm, let them slide off into the hot dish ready to receive them, pouring the butter in which they were cooked over them. Put in the eggs the moment the butter melts ; for, when first they go in, the pan should not be too hot : a drop or two of tarragon vinegar may be shaken over the dished eggs, or a tiny bit of maitre d'hotel butter the size of a pea may be allowed to melt over each of them. If after dishing the eggs, you return the pan to the fire, and brown the butter before pouring it over them, you have " oeufs au beurre noir." Eggs broken gently over very thin shavings of cheese, (which have been placed in melted butter in an omelettepan over the fire) and allowed to set, are called "oeufs au fromage": : they should be dusted with pepper, and salt before serving. I have frequently mentioned " buttered-eggs"* in connection with fish, vegetable cookery, and toasts. By some, the dish is called " scrambled eggs," which is perhaps the more accurate title, being a translation of the French "oeufs brouilles,"" the name given to it by our " lively neighbours." Do not forget the many ways in which you may serve this composition, and proceed to make it thus : — * The " rumlled eggs" of Ramasamj.