I have more than once alluded to " heignets^' in previous chapters, and receipts for several will be found amongst my menus. The hramoushy* is, I think, the prince of all savoury fritters, and is susceptible of being composed in many delicious ways. The oyster, pounded shell fish, minced fish of any kind, sweet-breads (when you can get them) or any delicately composed mince of fowl, or of meat, with tongue or ham, can be thus turned to an artistic account. Whatever your salpicon, or minced composition, may be made of, the spccdalites of the kramoushj are the little jacket of fat bacon in which it is enveloped, and the batter in which it is dipped. The bacon should be previously cooked, and cut into thin slices, two and a half inches long, and one and a half deep : two oysters, or a heaped up tea-spoonful of any salpicoyi, should be laid in the centre of each : the bacon must then be folded over it very neatly, and kept ready for the dipping process, which must be carried out cautiously. The frying should be conducted as already described. If you wish to make Jcramouskys of chicken, turkey, or game, you should mince the meat coarsely, the pieces being cut like little dice, bind the mince with the yolks of a couple of eggs or more, according to the quantity of the mince, and stir into it, in a sauce-pan on the fire, a little richly made veloute✪ Kramouskys ; let this get quite cold, and firm, then divide it into little portions and fill your bacon slices. Minced truffles, and mushrooms, are, of course, undeniable improvements to any salpicon. * Generally written ' Kromeskv,' ' or crojnesqni.' I have adopted a different spellinj? having been assured by a friend whose authority is unimpeachable that the dish is of Russian origin, and its name " Kra- mousky." 200 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. A fish kramouskij is easily accomplished : you need only mince the fish, stir into it, in a sauce-pan on the fire, a few spoonfuls of well made white sauce, add a little season- ing, with the yolk of an e^g✪ Fish Kramouskij when off the fire, and set it to cool. In like manner, tinned lobster, tinned oysters, and any tinned fish, can thus be successfully treated. In using them, however, it is necessary to wash, and drain them from the liquid of the tin. The sauce should be made very carefully, so that it may freshen up the fish as much as possible. An oyster, plainly dipped in the batter I have given you, and fried secundum artern^ is perhaps as dainty a morsel as can be presented to the jaded appetite of an Anglo-Indian. Drain the oysters from their liquor in the tin, wipe them, and set them, en marinade all the day in a soup plate, with the juice of three limes, an onion sliced some whole peppers, and a few cloves ; turn them occasion- ally till they are wanted for the friture-^an. Oyster fritters✪ Oyster Fritters thus treated, form an excellent garnish, and may be served with boiled or fried fish, or a dish of filets de hceuf.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.

I have more than once alluded to " heignets^' in previous chapters, and receipts for several will be found amongst my menus. The hramoushy* is, I think, the prince of all savoury fritters, and is susceptible of being composed in many delicious ways. The oyster, pounded shell fish, minced fish of any kind, sweet-breads (when you can get them) or any delicately composed mince of fowl, or of meat, with tongue or ham, can be thus turned to an artistic account. Whatever your salpicon, or minced composition, may be made of, the spccdalites of the kramoushj are the little jacket of fat bacon in which it is enveloped, and the batter in which it is dipped. The bacon should be previously cooked, and cut into thin slices, two and a half inches long, and one and a half deep : two oysters, or a heaped up tea-spoonful of any salpicoyi, should be laid in the centre of each : the bacon must then be folded over it very neatly, and kept ready for the dipping process, which must be carried out cautiously. The frying should be conducted as already described. If you wish to make Jcramouskys of chicken, turkey, or game, you should mince the meat coarsely, the pieces being cut like little dice, bind the mince with the yolks of a couple of eggs or more, according to the quantity of the mince, and stir into it, in a sauce-pan on the fire, a little richly made veloute ; let this get quite cold, and firm, then divide it into little portions and fill your bacon slices. Minced truffles, and mushrooms, are, of course, undeniable improvements to any salpicon. * Generally written ' Kromeskv,' ' or crojnesqni.' I have adopted a different spellinj? having been assured by a friend whose authority is unimpeachable that the dish is of Russian origin, and its name " Kra- mousky." 200 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. A fish kramouskij is easily accomplished : you need only mince the fish, stir into it, in a sauce-pan on the fire, a few spoonfuls of well made white sauce, add a little season- ing, with the yolk of an e^g when off the fire, and set it to cool. In like manner, tinned lobster, tinned oysters, and any tinned fish, can thus be successfully treated. In using them, however, it is necessary to wash, and drain them from the liquid of the tin. The sauce should be made very carefully, so that it may freshen up the fish as much as possible. An oyster, plainly dipped in the batter I have given you, and fried secundum artern^ is perhaps as dainty a morsel as can be presented to the jaded appetite of an Anglo-Indian. Drain the oysters from their liquor in the tin, wipe them, and set them, en marinade all the day in a soup plate, with the juice of three limes, an onion sliced some whole peppers, and a few cloves ; turn them occasion- ally till they are wanted for the friture-^an. Oyster fritters thus treated, form an excellent garnish, and may be served with boiled or fried fish, or a dish of filets de hceuf.

Culinary jottings