12. Tail-piece; used fresh as a choice roast. That part of a carcass of pork used for bacon is the flank and brisket, including the belly and the thin part of the ribs : it is first thoroughly salted, and then dried or smoked. The flitch of bacon is the entire side between the shoulder and the leg. Brawn is the entire length of a side, pickled, after it has been boned and rolled, and then boiled. poultry: There is no season when it is impossible to obtain good poultry of some kind ; but in warm, damp weather it is advisable to select that which has not been long killed, or preserved on ice, as both are likely to spoil quickly. In selecting fowls, see that the skin is clean, soft, and not badly torn, that the flesh looks plump and light-colored or whitish under the skin, and that some fat is apparent. Young fowls or chickens have large feet and long necks in proportion to their size, and the lower end of the breast-bone is so soft as to bend easily in response to slight side pressure : the cartilage does not harden into bone while the chicken is young enough to be absolutely tender. Of course there are tender large fowls and capons, bred especially for the table, which are well grown, and abound in delicious flesh. If the head and feet are upon dressed poultry, they will generally indicate its condition. The eyes will be full and bright, and the feet soft and pliable, when the poultry is in good condi- tion : if it is poor and stale, the feet will be dry and stiff, the eyes sunken and dull, and the flesh dark-colored and changing to a greenish hue about the back anld vent, as the poultry nears the point of spoiling. There are so many devices for restoring stale poultry which has not actually reached the stage of putrefaction, that the only absolute safety has in buying from honest dealers. The head of a capon, which is always left on the bird, is smaller in proper- MARKETING. 35 tion to the body than that of ordinary poultry ; the comb is more withered and pale ; the neck-feathers are longer ; and the body is shorter, fatter, and more plump. The flesh of capons is very tender and juicy : the weight is usually from eight to twelve pounds. Capon turkeys are unusual but delicious. The best spring chickens are those which have a full breast and are plump and short : those which have long legs and large bones are less satisfactory. Bantam fowls, which are sometimes marketed, are short and plump, about the size of a partridge ; and their flesh is excellent when they are young and fat. Turkeys are in fine condition when the flesh looks white and plump, and they have full breasts and smooth legs : old turkeys have rather thick skins covered with long hairs, and the flesh is purplish under the skin. Hen turkeys are smaller and plumper than male birds, and of less intense flavor : turkey poults, or young turkeys, are very tender and delicate, but not full-flavored. The finest turkeys that are marketed are the mutton-fed birds : they are fat, juicy, and well-flavored.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

12. Tail-piece; used fresh as a choice roast. That part of a carcass of pork used for bacon is the flank and brisket, including the belly and the thin part of the ribs : it is first thoroughly salted, and then dried or smoked. The flitch of bacon is the entire side between the shoulder and the leg. Brawn is the entire length of a side, pickled, after it has been boned and rolled, and then boiled. poultry: There is no season when it is impossible to obtain good poultry of some kind ; but in warm, damp weather it is advisable to select that which has not been long killed, or preserved on ice, as both are likely to spoil quickly. In selecting fowls, see that the skin is clean, soft, and not badly torn, that the flesh looks plump and light-colored or whitish under the skin, and that some fat is apparent. Young fowls or chickens have large feet and long necks in proportion to their size, and the lower end of the breast-bone is so soft as to bend easily in response to slight side pressure : the cartilage does not harden into bone while the chicken is young enough to be absolutely tender. Of course there are tender large fowls and capons, bred especially for the table, which are well grown, and abound in delicious flesh. If the head and feet are upon dressed poultry, they will generally indicate its condition. The eyes will be full and bright, and the feet soft and pliable, when the poultry is in good condition : if it is poor and stale, the feet will be dry and stiff, the eyes sunken and dull, and the flesh dark-colored and changing to a greenish hue about the back and vent, as the poultry nears the point of spoiling. There are so many devices for restoring stale poultry which has not actually reached the stage of putrefaction, that the only absolute safety has in buying from honest dealers. The head of a capon, which is always left on the bird, is smaller in proper- tion to the body than that of ordinary poultry ; the comb is more withered and pale ; the neck-feathers are longer ; and the body is shorter, fatter, and more plump. The flesh of capons is very tender and juicy : the weight is usually from eight to twelve pounds. Capon turkeys are unusual but delicious. The best spring chickens are those which have a full breast and are plump and short : those which have long legs and large bones are less satisfactory. Bantam fowls, which are sometimes marketed, are short and plump, about the size of a partridge ; and their flesh is excellent when they are young and fat. Turkeys are in fine condition when the flesh looks white and plump, and they have full breasts and smooth legs : old turkeys have rather thick skins covered with long hairs, and the flesh is purplish under the skin. Hen turkeys are smaller and plumper than male birds, and of less intense flavor : turkey poults, or young turkeys, are very tender and delicate, but not full-flavored. The finest turkeys that are marketed are the mutton-fed birds : they are fat, juicy, and well-flavored.

Miss Corson's practical American cookery and household management