In the old-fashioned pot-pie, which was cooked
by the general heat of a moderate fire of wood, the entire
bottom and sides of the dinner-pot in which it was made
were lined with the crust, and the meat, already partly
cooked, was put into the crust. With the moderate heat, it
was possible to brown the crust without burning it ; but with
our modern cooking apparatus, this would be a doubtful
experiment to attempt.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL, LARDED.
'Y\\e. fricandeau of veal is properly made from that round
muscle which lies upon the inner side of the leg of veal, and
is called the noix or cushion. To obtain it, the rest of the
leg must be used for other dishes, which do not require
ipecial cuts ; a thick cutlet is sometimes used as a frican-
deau. Use the medium-sized larding-needle, and strips of
fat salt pork cut less than quarter of an inch square, and two
inches long, ; put the strips of pork, or lardoons, one by one
into the split end of the needle, and take a succession of
stitches about a quarter of an inch long and deep in the upper
SIDE-DISHES {EN^TR^ES). 279
surface of the veal, in a line down the centre ; then make
other lines of lardoons on both sides of the centre line, let-
ting the ends of the lardoons come between each other, as
shown in the first picture, until the upper surface of the veal
is thickly larded ; after the veal is larded, it may be braised
Larded Fricandeau of Veal.
or baked, and will then present the appearance shown in
the second picture. The fricandeau may be baked on a
bed of vegetables, which can subsequently be rubbed
through a sieve with a potato-masher, and form the basis
of a brown gravy, or garnished after cooking with green
Larded Fricandeau after cootting.
peas or spinach, or served with a brown mushroom sauce.
A laided fricandeau is a choice dish, even when it is made
from a thick cutlet. The larded fricandeaux shown in the
third illustration are garnished with button mushrooms and
truffles.
28o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY.
When it is not desirable to use lardoons of pork or bacon,
strips of cold boiled tongue may replace them ; or of beef-
fat, if it can be found sufficiently tough to permit it to be
pulled through the rather dense fibre of uncooked meat.
In larding veal, the udder fat, that portion which is usually
attached to the end of veal cutlet cut from the leg, makes
passable lardoons. This fat is rather more substantial than
that which lies about the kidneys, and which would crumble
if drawn into uncooked meat. If the thin fat membrane,
that is sometimes spread over spring lamb, is cut in small
squares, and then rolled in the shape of lardoons, it may be
used instead of pork.
LARDED FRICANDEAUX, GARNISHED.
After a couple of fricandeaux have been larded and
cooked, as directed in the recipe for \zxA&A fricandeati, they
may be garnished elaborately, as shown in the accompanying
Larded Fricandeaux, Garnished.
engraving. The larding in this case is done by letting the
ends of the lardoons meet like the old stitch in sewing
called herring-bone : the fricandeaux are the cushions or
noix; the garnish v> of truffles and button mushrooms,
SIDE-DISHES (entries). 28 1
Page 157
Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
In the old-fashioned pot-pie, which was cooked by the general heat of a moderate fire of wood, the entire bottom and sides of the dinner-pot in which it was made were lined with the crust, and the meat, already partly cooked, was put into the crust. With the moderate heat, it was possible to brown the crust without burning it ; but with our modern cooking apparatus, this would be a doubtful experiment to attempt.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL, LARDED.
The fricandeauu of veal is properly made from that round muscle which lies upon the inner side of the leg of veal, and is called the noix or cushion. To obtain it, the rest of the leg must be used for other dishes, which do not require special cuts ; a thick cutlet is sometimes used as a fricandeau. Use the medium-sized larding-needle, and strips of fat salt pork cut less than quarter of an inch square, and two inches long; put the strips of pork, or lardoons, one by one into the split end of the needle, and take a succession of stitches about a quarter of an inch long and deep in the upper
SIDE-DISHES {EN^TR^ES). 279
surface of the veal, in a line down the centre ; then make other lines of lardoons on both sides of the centre line, letting the ends of the lardoons come between each other, as shown in the first picture, until the upper surface of the veal is thickly larded ; after the veal is larded, it may be braised
Larded Fricandeau of Veal.
or baked, and will then present the appearance shown in the second picture. The fricandeau may be baked on a bed of vegetables, which can subsequently be rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher, and form the basis of a brown gravy, or garnished after cooking with green
[illustration: Larded Fricandeau after cooking]
peas or spinach, or served with a brown mushroom sauce. A laided fricandeau is a choice dish, even when it is made from a thick cutlet. The larded fricandeaux shown in the third illustration are garnished with button mushrooms and truffles.
When it is not desirable to use lardoons of pork or bacon, strips of cold boiled tongue may replace them ; or of beeffat, if it can be found sufficiently tough to permit it to be pulled through the rather dense fibre of uncooked meat. In larding veal, the udder fat, that portion which is usually attached to the end of veal cutlet cut from the leg, makes passable lardoons. This fat is rather more substantial than that which lies about the kidneys, and which would crumble if drawn into uncooked meat. If the thin fat membrane, that is sometimes spread over spring lamb, is cut in small squares, and then rolled in the shape of lardoons, it may be used instead of pork.
LARDED FRICANDEAUX, GARNISHED.
After a couple of fricandeaux have been larded and cooked, as directed in the recipe for larded fricandeau, they may be garnished elaborately, as shown in the accompanying
Larded Fricandeaux, Garnished.
engraving. The larding in this case is done by letting the ends of the lardoons meet like the old stitch in sewing called herring-bone : the fricandeaux are the cushions or noix; the garnish v> of truffles and button mushrooms,
SIDE-DISHES (entries). 28 1