either side, stopping just short of the back-bone, and cut lengthwise. Then cut up one side before you begin upon the other, and let the slices be of moderate thickness; serving with each a thin slice of fat, cut lengthways from the outer edge of the lower sides. Having finished one side, pursue a siniilar line of operations with the other. Help to each guest some of the gravy out of the meat. The linder part is seldom served hot, yet it contains some very delicate eating. A Loin of Mutton should always be jointed by either the butcher or cook before it is sent to table. The carver merely separates the, meat into chops, begin- |ning at. the narrow end, and serves them round. A Fore-quarter of Lamb requires a careful carver to do it justice. Sometimes he will have first to separate the shoulder from the ribs. To do this it will be necessary to insert the fork towards the knuckle, and to cut with the knife held nearly hori- zontally, and theil to raise the fork, cutting through the meat of the flap, so as not to leave the ribs tipo bare. In a well-regulated family, however, all this trouble is spared the carver — the cook having seen to the separation beforehand— and he has only to lift the shoulder with the fork, and to place it on a separate dish. He must then separate the brisket from the ribs (if hot already done), by cutting straight across. To a novice this is no easy matter; but practice soon makes perfect. The more solid meat lies to the right, and the brisket is to be served in squares. A portion of each is usually placed on LEG OF PORK. ,229 the plate. Where that practice does not prevail the choice is ribs, brisket, or shoulder; the latter bping carved like a shoulder of mutton. Leg of Lamb and Loin of Lamb are carved exactly as mutton, but the fat being more delicate, it is handed round with a more liberal hand. PORK. A Boast Pig. — To eat this with a proper zest, a copy of Elia's Essays should be at the carver's right hand; for without it he will forget half the dainties which Charles the inimitable has pointed out as nestling about the ribs and neck, and ears arid jaw of the little favorite. It is usually cut up before it ■ is sent to table, and the cook should be told to divide the head. The carver must then remove the brains, and mix them with the gravy and stuffing. The pig is cut asunder from the shoulder to the tail, right down the center of the back, and subdivided into squares. Help each, with its proper adjunct of gravy afld stuffing; with a liberal hand; for to help roast pig niggardly was deemed a gross insult by Dr. Parr, and others may have the like notion. The ribs are still esteemed by some the best eating, though by others the neck is preferred. The ear and jaw are considered delicacies; but the fact is, the whole is good eating, and the carver has only tp see that it is served as hot as possible. A Leg of Pork should be cut across. If boiled, the slices are served thinner than when roasted. In the latter case the carver is somewhat regulated by 230 VEAL. the incisions made in the skin before roasting, and which are known as "crackling" to all lovers of the dish. Having made the incjsions, the cu,ts are made right and left alternately. The seasoning will be found under the skin; but many persons send the seasoning in the dish. A Loin of Pork is carved as a loin of mutton, placing one chop upon each plate. A Hand of Pork may be carved by cutting slices acrqss, as in a shoulder of mutton, and also from off the blade-bone. VEAL. A Filet of Veal is cut in the same way as a round of beef; but as the browned outside is considered a' choice part, it should be ascertained whether outside or inside be preferred. The horizontal slices should 'be delicately cut, and to every one a portion of the stuffing should be served, with a little of the fat.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

either side, stopping just short of the back-bone, and cut lengthwise. Then cut up one side before you begin upon the other, and let the slices be of moderate thickness; serving with each a thin slice of fat, cut lengthways from the outer edge of the lower sides. Having finished one side, pursue a similar line of operations with the other. Help to each guest some of the gravy out of the meat. The under part is seldom served hot, yet it contains some very delicate eating. A Loin of Mutton should always be jointed by either the butcher or cook before it is sent to table. The carver merely separates the, meat into chops, beginning at the narrow end, and serves them round. A Fore-quarter of Lamb requires a careful carver to do it justice. Sometimes he will have first to separate the shoulder from the ribs. To do this it will be necessary to insert the fork towards the knuckle, and to cut with the knife held nearly horizontally, and then to raise the fork, cutting through the meat of the flap, so as not to leave the ribs too bare. In a well-regulated family, however, all this trouble is spared the carver — the cook having seen to the separation beforehand— and he has only to lift the shoulder with the fork, and to place it on a separate dish. He must then separate the brisket from the ribs (if hot already done), by cutting straight across. To a novice this is no easy matter; but practice soon makes perfect. The more solid meat lies to the right, and the brisket is to be served in squares. A portion of each is usually placed on LEG OF PORK. ,229 the plate. Where that practice does not prevail the choice is ribs, brisket, or shoulder; the latter being carved like a shoulder of mutton. Leg of Lamb and Loin of Lamb are carved exactly as mutton, but the fat being more delicate, it is handed round with a more liberal hand. PORK. A Boast Pig. — To eat this with a proper zest, a copy of Elia's Essays should be at the carver's right hand; for without it he will forget half the dainties which Charles the inimitable has pointed out as nestling about the ribs and neck, and ears arid jaw of the little favorite. It is usually cut up before it ■ is sent to table, and the cook should be told to divide the head. The carver must then remove the brains, and mix them with the gravy and stuffing. The pig is cut asunder from the shoulder to the tail, right down the center of the back, and subdivided into squares. Help each, with its proper adjunct of gravy afld stuffing; with a liberal hand; for to help roast pig niggardly was deemed a gross insult by Dr. Parr, and others may have the like notion. The ribs are still esteemed by some the best eating, though by others the neck is preferred. The ear and jaw are considered delicacies; but the fact is, the whole is good eating, and the carver has only to see that it is served as hot as possible. A Leg of Pork should be cut across. If boiled, the slices are served thinner than when roasted. In the latter case the carver is somewhat regulated by 230 VEAL. the incisions made in the skin before roasting, and which are known as "crackling" to all lovers of the dish. Having made the incisions, the cuts are made right and left alternately. The seasoning will be found under the skin; but many persons send the seasoning in the dish. A Loin of Pork is carved as a loin of mutton, placing one chop upon each plate. A Hand of Pork may be carved by cutting slices across, as in a shoulder of mutton, and also from off the blade-bone. VEAL. A Filet of Veal is cut in the same way as a round of beef; but as the browned outside is considered a' choice part, it should be ascertained whether outside or inside be preferred. The horizontal slices should 'be delicately cut, and to every one a portion of the stuffing should be served, with a little of the fat.

My mother's cook book