FoodNet

Domestic science (Clark, Cornell home economics)

1911

Page 61

Presented as published in 1911. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Preparations for Market. The leaves are gathered rapidly to prevent crushing and fermentation, and are touched with the hands as little as possible. Since the leaves are apt to set up a process of fermentation, they are rarely conveyed in bulk. Curing. The object of the curing is to get rid of the moisture, and prevent decomposition, and also to bring the virtue out of the tea. Curing also breaks down the plant structure to some extent. The method of curing differs with different localities. The Chinese method is chiefly by hand and the Indian by machin- ery. The process of curing includes drying, rolling, and 152 DOMESTIC SCIENCE firing. The leaves are dried by steam or charcoal without smoke, heated evenly by movements with the hand or by shaking the vessel. They are sometimes dried in the sua and trodden out by barefooted men in order to break the fibre and dry them quickly and better. For export the leaves are more highly dried to keep the flavor. Tea which comes by way of the Pacific Ocean, where it is in the same latitude all the way, is much better flavored than that which comes by the Cape and Suez Canal. The method differs in the black and in the green teas. The black teas are dried before being fired, and the green teas are fired at once, or seasoned before drying. The chlorophyll or green coloring matter of plants is not changed, so the leaves remain green. For Black Teas. To ciu-e black teas, the leaves are exposed to the air iintil dry, then tossed until soft, and then left piled in heaps for a while before they are fired. After firing they are rolled about on rattan frames, and dried slowly over charcoal. When partly dried they are rolled again, then dried and repeatedly rolled. The color of black tea depends on the exposure to atmospheric changes (fermentation). For Green Teas. To cure green teas, the leaves are steamed in a small boiler. The steam swells the plant and heats the juice to evaporation. It liberates the essential oil which is then rubbed in with the hands; after the leaves are fired they are dried care- fully and rolled in form for the market, by feet or hands. From the rubbing in of the oil by hand, the green tea gets its special flavor. The color of green tea depends on the rapidity of drying, while the gloss TEA 153 depends on treating and manipulating with a little Prussian blue, mixed with gypsum and indigo. Artificial Flavoring. The high-class teas are not treated in this way. The tea leaves are placed with aromatic flowers of other plants. For example, the Olea fragrance is used to make the scented Pekoe. Odors thus imparted to the tea leaves are evanescent, but delicate and agreeable, and give pleasant varie- ties to the inferior teas. Scented teas are always mixed with stronger, unscented teas. Varieties of Teas. Varieties depend upon time of collecting, stage of the development of the leaf, method of curing, etc. Pekoe. This is made from the smallest leaves, and Flowery Pekoe has very tender tips with some of the tea flowers. It has a very delicate flavor, but not a full body, and is rarely used alone. For Orange Pekoe two small leaves next to tl^e top are taken. All Pekoe teas are very expensive. Souchong. These are the leaves next to the Pekoe. They are larger leaves without the ends of the twigs. Hyson. This is a variety from the earliest pickings of the buds and half -open leaves in April. The leaves are then closely rolled, and are greenish and delicate in flavor, as they contain a large proportion of juice to the sohd substance in the leaf. It is prepared with care in order that it may be perfectly preserved. The Commercial varieties are the Green and Black Hyson, Imperial Gimpowder, Japan and Java. Black Teas. Kaison Caper (plain and scented), Baked Souchong (little leaf), and Oolong (the Chinese word for black dragon), are black teas. The division 154 DOMESTIC SCIENCE