FoodNetArchive

Banquets of the nations

1911

Page 7

Presented as published in 1911. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
guest is requested to help himself and it is de riguer that he observes the following custom. With one of the forks he impales the half of an apricot, wishes the host and others present all good wishes, places the whole of it, no matter how large, in his mouth at once. He then returns the fork to the tray after first dipping it into the silver goblet, takes one of the glasses of water, places his hand on his heart, bows to right and left, and drinks some of the water. After all have gone through this ceremony the maid returns with a basin, and attended by the host's brother or other near relative with an earthen jar of water and a towel. The guests hold their hands over the basin, and the water is poured over them. They seat themselves on the floor around a low table, or very large round tray placed on a low stand. Each dish is put in the centre, and all eat from the one dish. Soup and pilaf are eaten with a spoon, everything else is eaten with the fingers. The host will, as a mark of great favour, pluck what he considers a dainty morsel and pop it into the mouth of an honoured guest, and woe betide him if he does not gracefully accept the implied honour. Bread is very plentiful, and dishes containing salads, pickles and condiments, along with glasses of water, are never cleared from the table when the courses are being changed. After more washing, coffee is served. The host's son or daughter or other relative attends with the maid and takes the cup from the tray and hands it to the guest. In Kurdistan the dishes are few and homely. It is the custom that the whole of the first course, consisting of rice, broth, meat, and curdled milk, be served at once, that being divided into equal portions of one for each two guests. The b xvii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS customary ceremonial of all Arabs, that of removing sandals, eating bread and salt, etc., before squatting to food, are a sine qua non. In Syria all the salt dishes are placed on the table at once, and after the guests have helped themselves indiscriminately and eaten to repletion, the sweet dishes are offered ; after which the diners wash their hands with water and soap, and dry them with a towel. Fruit and coffee is then served, and the hands and person sprinkled with perfumed water. The great or principal dish is a lamb seethed in its mother's milk, forbidden in the Bible, but the usages of the country would be observed if cooked as given in the recipe. " Kibbeh " is another very typical dish, and no native would ever dream of spending a day at the riverside without taking it with him, and on offering you a portion he would politely wish you "Fahhatain," meaning two appetites. In Persia, after washing and offering up of prayers, the diners seat themselves on rich rugs on the floor round a large tray on which are placed vessels containing the different kinds of foods. This tray is usually standing on a handsome carpet in the middle of the floor. Though all the dishes are placed on the floor at once, the meats are served in courses, fish being the first one offered. After the sweet dishes have been partaken of, water and towels are brought in, and a smoke with the water-pipe enjoyed. The cooking of the Canary Islands savours of Spain and Portugal, with the redolence of an old-world native dish cropping np now and again.