Catherine Owen's new cook book ..

The mode I am about to give of preparing breast of mutton was told me by a Welsh lady of rank, at whose table I ate it (it appeared as a side dish), and who said. 102 Culture and Cooking. half laughingly, "Will you take some 'fluff'? We are very fond of it, but breast of mutton is such a despised dish I never expect any one else to like it." I took it, on my principle of trying everything, and did find it very good. This lady told me that, having of course a good deal of mutton killed on her father's estate, and the breast being always despised by the servants, she had invented a way of using it to avoid waste. Her way was this : Set the breast of mutton on the fire whole, just covered with water in which is a little salt. When it comes to the boil draw it back and let it simmer three hours ; then take it up and draw out the bones, and lay a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, chopped suet, salt and pepper all over it ; double or roll it, skewer it, and coat it thickly with egg and bread-crumbs ; then bake in a moderate oven, basting it often with nice dripping or butter ; when nicely brown it is done, and eats like the tenderest lamb. It was, when I saw it, served on a bed of spinach. I like it better on a bed of stewed onions. I now give some dishes made without meat. Ragout of Cucumber and Onions.— Fry equal quantities of large cucumbers and onions in slices until they are a nice brown. The cucumber will brown more easily if cut up and put to drain some time before using ; then flour each slice. When both are brown, pour on them a cup of water, and let them stew for half an hour ; then take a good piece of butter in which you have worked a dessert-spoonful of flour (browned) ; add pepper, salt, and a little tomato catsup or stewed tomato. This is a rich-eating dish if nicely made, and will help out cold meat or a scant quantity of it very well. A little cold meat may be added if you have it. Chapter for People of Very Small Means. 103 Onion Soup. — Fry six large onions cut into slices with a quarter of a pound of butter till they are of a bright brown, then well mix in a tablespoonful of flour, and pour on them rather more than a quart of water. Stew gently until the onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt and a little sugar ; stir in quickly a liaison made with the yolks of two eggs mixed with a gill of milk or cream (do not let it boil afterwards), put some toast in a tureen, and serve very hot. Pea Soup.— Steep some yellow split peas all night, next morning set them on to boil with two quarts of water to a pint of peas ; in the water put a tiny bit of soda. In another pot put a large carrot, a turnip, an onion, and a large head of celery, all cut small and covered with water. When both peas and vegetables are tender, put them together, season with salt, pepper, and a little sugar, and let them gently stew till thick enough ; then strain through a colander, rubbing the vegetables well, and return to the pot while you fry some sippets of bread a crisp brown ; then stir into the soup two ounces of butter in which you have rolled a little flour. This soup is simply delicious, and the fact of it being maigre will not be remembered.