I]^ spite of Brillat-Sayarin's maxim tliat one may be- come a cook, but must be born a rotisseur, I am inclined to think one may also, by remembering one or two things, become a very good ^^ roaster'^ (to translate the untranslatable), especially in our day, when the oyen has taken the place of the spit, although a great deal of meat is spoiled in roasting ; a loin of lamb or piece of beef, that comes to the table so pale that you can't tell whether it has been boiled or merely wilted in the oven, is an aggravation so familiar, that a rich brown, well- roasted joint is generally a surprise. Perhaps the cook will tell you she has had the ^^ hottest kind of an oyen;" but then she has probably also had a well of water underneath it, the yapor from which, arising all the time, has effectually soddened the meat, and checked the browning. The surface of roast meat should be coyered with a rich glaze, scientifically called ^^osma- zone/^ That the meat may be thus glazed, it should always go into a hot oyen, so that, as the grayy exudes, it may congeal on the outside, thus sealing up the pores. The general plan, howeyer, is to put meat into a warm oyen an hour or two earlier than it should go, with a quantity of water and flour underneath it. The result in hot weather I haye known to be yery disagreeable, the tepid oyen haying, in fact, giyen a stale taste to the joint 62 Roasting. 63 before it began to cook, and it at all times results in flayorless, tough meat. There is no time saved, either, in putting the meat in while the oyen is yet cool. Heat up the oyen till it is quite brisk, then put the meat in a pan, in which, if it is fat, you require no water ; if yery lean, you may put half a teacup, just enough to preyent the pan burning ; you may rub a little flour oyer the joint or not, as you please, but neyer more than the sur- face moisture absorbs ; haye no clinging particles of flour upon the joint, neither put salt nor pepper upon the meat before it goes into the oyen ; salt draws out the grayy, which it is your object to keep in, and the flay or of pepper is entirely changed by the parching it undergoes when on the surface of the meat, the odor of scorched pepper, while cooking, being yery offensiye to refined nostrils. This does not occur when pepper is not on the surface ; for the inside of birds, in stuffing, and in meat pies it is indispensable, and the flayor undergoes no change. This remark on pepper applies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper after ^q article is cooked, and both for appearance and delicacy of flayor white pepper should always be used in preference to black. Meat, while in the oyen, should be carefully turned about so that it may brown equally, and when it has been in half the time you intend to giye it, or when the upper surface is well browned, turn it oyer. When it comes out of the oyen put it on a hot dish, then care- fully pour off the fat by holding the corner of the meat pan oyer your dripping-pan, and yery gently allowing the fat to run off ; do not shake it ; when you see the thick brown sediment beginning to run too, check it ; if there is still much fat on the surface, take it off with a 64 Culture and Cooking.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

In spite of Brillat-Sayarin's maxim tliat one may become a cook, but must be born a rotisseur, I am inclined to think one may also, by remembering one or two things, become a very good "roaster" (to translate the untranslatable), especially in our day, when the oyen has taken the place of the spit, although a great deal of meat is spoiled in roasting ; a loin of lamb or piece of beef, that comes to the table so pale that you can't tell whether it has been boiled or merely wilted in the oven, is an aggravation so familiar, that a rich brown, well-roasted joint is generally a surprise. Perhaps the cook will tell you she has had the "hottest kind of an oven"; but then she has probably also had a well of water underneath it, the vapor from which, arising all the time, has effectually soddened the meat, and checked the browning. The surface of roast meat should be covered with a rich glaze, scientifically called "osmazone." That the meat may be thus glazed, it should always go into a hot oven, so that, as the gravy exudes, it may congeal on the outside, thus sealing up the pores. The general plan, however, is to put meat into a warm oven an hour or two earlier than it should go, with a quantity of water and flour underneath it. The result in hot weather I have known to be very disagreeable, the tepid oven having, in fact, given a stale taste to the joint Roasting. 63 before it began to cook, and it at all times results in flavorless, tough meat.. There is no time saved, either, in putting the meat in while the oyen is yet cool. Heat up the oven till it is quite brisk, then put the meat in a pan, in which, if it is fat, you require no water ; if very lean, you may put half a teacup, just enough to prevent the pan burning ; you may rub a little flour over the joint or not, as you please, but never more than the surface moisture absorbs ; have no clinging particles of flour upon the joint, neither put salt nor pepper upon the meat before it goes into the oven ; salt draws out the gravy, which it is your object to keep in, and the flavor of pepper is entirely changed by the parching it undergoes when on the surface of the meat, the odor of scorched pepper, while cooking, being very offensive to refined nostrils. This does not occur when pepper is not on the surface ; for the inside of birds, in stuffing, and in meat pies it is indispensable, and the flavor undergoes no change. This remark on pepper applies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper after an article is cooked, and both for appearance and delicacy of flavor white pepper should always be used in preference to black. Meat, while in the oven, should be carefully turned about so that it may brown equally, and when it has been in half the time you intend to give it, or when the upper surface is well browned, turn it over. When it comes out of the oven put it on a hot dish, then carefully pour off the fat by holding the corner of the meat pan over your dripping-pan, and very gently allowing the fat to run off ; do not shake it ; when you see the thick brown sediment beginning to run too, check it ; if there is still much fat on the surface, take it off with a 64 Culture and Cooking.

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