some put in a jar as well as in the skin — in boiling water. Keep a small stiff brush ; such as are sold for the pur- pose at house-furnishing stores^ called a glazing brush, are best ; but you may manage with any other or e\^en a stiff feather. When the glaze softens, as glue would do, brush oyer your meat with it, it will giye the lacking brown ; or, if you haye a ham or tongue you wish to decorate you may ^^yarnish'^ it, as it were, with the melted glaze ; then when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen syringe, if you haye one, a stiff paper funnel if you haye not, trace any design you please on the glazed surface ; this makes a yery handsome dish, and if your ham has been properly boiled will be yery satisfactory to the palate. Of the boiling of ham I will speak in another chapter, I haye a few more articles to recommend for your store-room, and then I think you will find yourself equal to the emergency of proyiding an elegant little meal if called upon unexpectedly, proyided you haye any cold scraps at all in the house, and mattre d^hotel butter. To make the latter, take half a pound of fine butter, one tablespoonful of yery fresh parsley, chopped not too fine, salt, pepper, and a small tablespoonful of lemon juice✪ Maitre d'Hotel Butter ; mix together, but do not work more than suffi- cient for that purpose, and pack in a jar, keeping it in a cool place. A tablespoonful of this laid in a hot dish on which you serye beefsteak, chops, or any kind of fish, is a great addition, and turns plain boiled potatoes into pomme de terre a la maitre dlioteh It is excellent with stewed potatoes, or added to anything for which parsley is needed, and not always at hand ; a spoonful with half the quantity of flour stirred into a gill of milk or water makes the renowned maitre d^hotel sauce (or English What to Have in Your Store-room. 33 parsley butter) for boiled fish^ mutton^ or veal. In shorty it is one of the -most valuable things to have in the house. Equally valuable^ even^ and more elegant is the preparation known as ^^Eavigotte^^ or Montpellier butter. T^ke one pound in equal quantities of chervil^ tarra- gon, burnet (pimpernel), chives, and garden cress (pep- pergrass) ; scald two minutes, drain quite dry ; pound in a mortar three hard eggs, three anchovies, and one scant ounce of pickled cucumbers, and same quantity of capers well pressed to extract the vinegar ; add salt, pepper, and a bit of garlic half as large as a pea, rub all through a sieve ; then put a pound of fine butter into the mortar, which must be well cleansed from the herbs, add the herbs, with two tablespoonf uls of oil and one of tarragon vinegar, mix perfectly, and if not of a fine green, add the juice of some pounded spinach. This is the celebrated "leurre de Montpellier,^^ sold in Paris in tiny jars at a high price. Kavigotte is the same thing, only in place of the eggs, anchovies, pickles, and capers, put half a pound more butter ; it is good, but less piquant. Pack in a jar, and keep cool. This butter is excel- lent for many purposes. For salad, beaten with oil, vinegar, and yolks of eggs, as for mayonnaise, it makes a delicious dressing. For cold meat or fish it is excel- lent, and also for chops.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

some put in a jar as well as in the skin — in boiling water. Keep a small stiff brush ; such as are sold for the purpose at house-furnishing stores, called a glazing brush, are best ; but you may manage with any other or even a stiff feather. When the glaze softens, as glue would do, brush over your meat with it, it will give the lacking brown ; or, if youhave a ham or tongue you wish to decorate you may "varnish"^ it as it were, with the melted glaze; then when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen syringe, if you have one, a stiff paper funnel if you have not, trace any design you please on the glazed surface; this makes a very handsome dish, and if your ham has been properly boiled will be very satisfactoryy to the palate. Of the boiling of ham I will speak in another chapter, I have a few more articles to recommend for your store-room, and then I think you will find yourself equal to the emergency of providing an elegant little meal if called upon unexpectedly, provided you haye any cold scraps at all in the house, and mattre d^hotel butter. To make the latter, take half a pound of fine butter, one tablespoonful of very fresh parsley, chopped not too fine, salt, pepper, and a small tablespoonful of lemon juice ; mix together, but do not work more than sufficient for that purpose, and pack in a jar, keeping it in a cool place. A tablespoonful of this laid in a hot dish on which you serye beefsteak, chops, or any kind of fish, is a great addition, and turns plain boiled potatoes into pomme de terre a la maitre dlioteh It is excellent with stewed potatoes, or added to anything for which parsley is needed, and not always at hand ; a spoonful with half the quantity of flour stirred into a gill of milk or water makes the renowned maitre d^hotel sauce (or English What to Have in Your Store-room. 33 parsley butter) for boiled fish, mutton, or veal.In short, it is one of the most valuable things to have in the house. Equally valuable, even, and more elegant is the preparation known as "Ravigotte" or Montpellier butter. Take one pound in equal quantities of chervil^ tarragon, burnet (pimpernel), chives, and garden cress (peppergrass) ; scald two minutes, drain quite dry ; pound in a mortar three hard eggs, three anchovies, and one scant ounce of pickled cucumbers, and same quantity of capers well pressed to extract the vinegar ; add salt, pepper, and a bit of garlic half as large as a pea, rub all through a sieve ; then put a pound of fine butter into the mortar, which must be well cleansed from the herbs, add the herbs, with two tablespoonfuls of oil and one of tarragon vinegar, mix perfectly, and if not of a fine green, add the juice of some pounded spinach. This is the celebrated "beurre de Montpellier," sold in Paris in tiny jars at a high price. Kavigotte is the same thing, only in place of the eggs, anchovies, pickles, and capers, put half a pound more butter ; it is good, but less piquant. Pack in a jar, and keep cool. This butter is excellent for many purposes. For salad, beaten with oil, vinegar, and yolks of eggs, as for mayonnaise, it makes a delicious dressing. For cold meat or fish it is excellent, and also for chops.

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Maitre d'Hotel ButterRavigote or Montpellier Butter

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