The cellar, when properly constructed and cared for, is the most useful room in the house, and no dwelling is complete without one. It is economy of expense and ground-space to build it under ground, and this plan gives the best cellar whenever the site of the house permits thorough drainage. - The base of the foundation-wall of the house should be’ laid a little below the floor-level of the cellar, and the first layer should be of broad flag-stones, so placed that the edges will project a few inches beyond the outer face of the wall. This effectually prevents rats from undermining the cement floor, which they often do when this precaution is neglected, digging away the dirt until the floor breaks and gives them access to a new depot of supplies. In burrowing downwards, they invariably keep close to the wall, and when they reach the projecting flagging, give it up and look for an easier job. Tosecure the cellar from freezing, the wall, above the level of the deepest frost, should be double or “hollow,” the inner wall being of brick four inches thick, with an air-space of two inches between it and the outer wall, which should be of stone and twelve or fourteen inches thick. The brick wall should be stiff: ened by an occasional ‘‘binder’’ across to the stone. The hollow space may be filled with dry tan-bark or sawdust, or left simply filled with the confined air, ‘‘dead air’ being the most perfect non-conductor of heat known. The windows, which should be opposite each other when possible, to secure a ‘draft’ and more perfect ventilation, should be provided with double sash —one flush with the outer face of the wall, which may be removed in sum- mer, and the other flush with the inner face, hung on strong hinges, so that it may easily be swung open upward and hooked there. In winter, this arrangement lets in light, but with its space of confined air, keeps out the frost. A frame covered with wire netting should take the place of the outer sash in summer, to keep out every thing but the fresh air and light. The walls should be as smooth as possible on the inner side, and neatly plastered; _also the ceiling overhead. The floor should be first paved with small stones, then a coat of water-lime laid on, and over this a second coat, as level as a planed floor. There should also be double doors, one flush with each face of the wall; and a wide out-door stairway, through which vegetables, coal, etc., may be carried, is indispensable. The depth should be about eight feet. Such a cellar may always be clean, the air pure, and the temperature — under complete control. It will consequently keep apples and pears two or three months longer than an ordinary cellar, prolonging the fruit season to “strawberry-time.” If it extends under the whole house—the best plan when the state of the purse permits it—it may be divided into apartments, ; oA (455) 156 THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. with brick walls between—one for vegetables, one for fruits, one for provis: ions, one for the laundry, and a fifth for coal and the furnace, if one is used. In one corner of the cellar, under the kitchen, may also be the cistern, the strong cellar wall serving for its outer wall. A pump from the kitchen | would supply water there for domestic uses; and a pipe with a stop-cock, leading through the wall into the cellar, would occasionally be a conven- ience and save labor. It is better, however, as a rule, to locave the cistern just outside the house, passing a pipe from it through the cellar wall below the deepest frost level, and thence to the kitchen. If built in the cellar, the cistern should be square, with heavy walls, plastered inside with three coatg of water-lime.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The cellar, when properly constructed and cared for, is the most useful room in the house, and no dwelling is complete without one. It is economy of expense and ground-space to build it under ground, and this plan gives the best cellar whenever the site of the house permits thorough drainage. - The base of the foundation-wall of the house should be laid a little below the floor-level of the cellar, and the first layer should be of broad flag-stones, so placed that the edges will project a few inches beyond the outer face of the wall. This effectually prevents rats from undermining the cement floor, which they often do when this precaution is neglected, digging away the dirt until the floor breaks and gives them access to a new depot of supplies. In burrowing downwards, they invariably keep close to the wall, and when they reach the projecting flagging, give it up and look for an easier job. Tosecure the cellar from freezing, the wall, above the level of the deepest frost, should be double or “hollow,” the inner wall being of brick four inches thick, with an air-space of two inches between it and the outer wall, which should be of stone and twelve or fourteen inches thick. The brick wall should be stiffened by an occasional "binder" across to the stone. The hollow space may be filled with dry tan-bark or sawdust, or left simply filled with the confined air, ‘"dead air" being the most perfect non-conductor of heat known The windows, which should be opposite each other when possible, to secure a "draft" and more perfect ventilation, should be provided with double sash —one flush with the outer face of the wall, which may be removed in summer, and the other flush with the inner face, hung on strong hinges, so that it may easily be swung open upward and hooked there. In winter, this arrangement lets in light, but with its space of confined air, keeps out the frost. A frame covered with wire netting should take the place of the outer sash in summer, to keep out every thing but the fresh air and light. The walls should be as smooth as possible on the inner side, and neatly plastered; _also the ceiling overhead. The floor should be first paved with small stones, then a coat of water-lime laid on, and over this a second coat, as level as a planed floor. There should also be double doors, one flush with each face of the wall; and a wide out-door stairway, through which vegetables, coal, etc., may be carried, is indispensable. The depth should be about eight feet. Such a cellar may always be clean, the air pure, and the temperature — under complete control. It will consequently keep apples and pears two or three months longer than an ordinary cellar, prolonging the fruit season to “strawberry-time.” If it extends under the whole house—the best plan when the state of the purse permits it—it may be divided into apartments, with brick walls between—one for vegetables, one for fruits, one for provis: ions, one for the laundry, and a fifth for coal and the furnace, if one is used. In one corner of the cellar, under the kitchen, may also be the cistern, the strong cellar wall serving for its outer wall. A pump from the kitchen | would supply water there for domestic uses; and a pipe with a stop-cock, leading through the wall into the cellar, would occasionally be a convenience and save labor. It is better, however, as a rule, to locave the cistern just outside the house, passing a pipe from it through the cellar wall below the deepest frost level, and thence to the kitchen. If built in the cellar, the cistern should be square, with heavy walls, plastered inside with three coats of water-lime.

Buckeye cookery