_WasH Sitk HanpKercuiers by laying them on a smooth board, and rub- bing with the palm of the hand. Use either borax or white castile soap te make the suds; rinse in clear water, shake till nearly dry, fold evenly, lay between boards, and put a weight on them. No ironing is required. Silk hose and ribbons may be treated in the same way; if there are colors that run, put as much sugar of lead as will lie on a quarter dollar, into a half gallon of water, and soak the goods half an hour, stirring frequently, then wash as above, and rinse in several clear waters, using sugar of lead In the last. Or, wash in cold rain-water with a little curd soap; then rinse them in rain-water—cold—slightly colored with stone blue; wring well, and stretch them out on a mattress, tacking them out tightly. They will look as good as new if carefully washed. WasHinG Licut-CoLtokep Prints and CampBrics.— Take a table-spoon of alum, and dissolve it in enough lukewarm water✪ Washing Light-Colored Prints and Cambrics to rinse a print dress. Dip the soiled dress into it, taking care to wet thoroughly every part of it, and then wring it out. Have warm, not hot, suds all ready, and wash out the dress quickly; then rinse it in cold water. (White castile soap is the: best for colored cottons, if it can be commanded.) Have the starch ready, but not too hot; rinse the dress in it, wring it out, and hang it wrong side out to dry, but notin the sun. Place it where the wind will strike it rather than the sun. When dry, iron directly. Prints should never be sprinkled; but, if allowed to become rough dry, they should be ironed under a damp cloth. It is better to wash them some day by themselves, when washing and ironing can be done at once. To Wash Frsnnets In Botting Water.—Make a strong suds of boiling water and soft soap—hard soap makes fiannels stiff and wiry—put them in, pressing them down under the water with a clothes-stick; when cool enough rub the articles carefully between the hands, then wring—but not through the wringer—as dry as possible, shake, snap out, and pull each piece into its. original size and shape, then throw immediately into another tub of boiling water, in which you have thoroughly mixed some nice bluing. Shake them up and down in this last water with a clothes-stick until cool enough for the hands, then rinse well, wring, shake out and pull into shape—the snapping: and pulling are as necessary as the washing—and hangin a sunny place where they will dry quickly. Many prefer to rinse in two waters with the bluing in the last, and thisis always advisable when there are many flannels. CaRE or [rons.—When irons become rough or smoky, lay a little fine salt on a flat surface and rub them well; it will prevent them sticking to any thing starched, and make them smooth; or scour with bath-brick before heating, and when hot rub well with salt, and then with a small piece of beeswax tied up in a rag, after which wipe clean ona dry cloth. A piece . of fine sandpaper is also agood thing to have near the stove, ora hard, smooth board covered with brick dust, to rub each iron on when it is put back on the stove, so that no starch may remain to be burnt on. Put bees- - wax between pieces of paper or cloth and keep on the table close by the flat-iron stand. Ifthe irons get coated with scorched starch, rub them over the paper that holds the beeswax and it will allcome off. Rubbing the iron over the waxed paper, even if no starch adheres, adds to the glossiness of the linen that is ironed. Wasuine Lace.—To make the starch properly, mix the dry particles with -enough cold water to make a smooth paste, add cold water until it looks like milk and water, and boil itin a smoothly glazed earthen vessel until it is perfectly transparent. While it is cooling squeeze the laces through a soap-suds, and rinse them in clear water. If you wish them clear white, add

AI-modernized reading of the original text

WASH SILK HANDKERCHIEFS by laying them on a smooth board, and rubbing with the palm of the hand. Use either borax or white castile soap to make the suds; rinse in clear water, shake till nearly dry, fold evenly, lay between boards, and put a weight on them. No ironing is required. Silk hose and ribbons may be treated in the same way; if there are colors that run, put as much sugar of lead as will lie on a quarter dollar, into a half gallon of water, and soak the goods half an hour, stirring frequently, then wash as above, and rinse in several clear waters, using sugar of lead in the last. Or, wash in cold rain-water with a little curd soap; then rinse them in rain-water—cold—slightly colored with stone blue; wring well, and stretch them out on a mattress, tacking them out tightly. They will look as good as new if carefully washed. WASHING LIGHT-COLORED PRINTS AND CAMBRICS.— Take a table-spoon of alum, and dissolve it in enough lukewarm water to rinse a print dress. Dip the soiled dress into it, taking care to wet thoroughly every part of it, and then wring it out. Have warm, not hot, suds all ready, and wash out the dress quickly; then rinse it in cold water. (White castile soap is the: best for colored cottons, if it can be commanded.) Have the starch ready, but not too hot; rinse the dress in it, wring it out, and hang it wrong side out to dry, but notin the sun. Place it where the wind will strike it rather than the sun. When dry, iron directly. Prints should never be sprinkled; but, if allowed to become rough dry, they should be ironed under a damp cloth. It is better to wash them some day by themselves, when washing and ironing can be done at once. TO WASH FLANNELS IN BOILING WATER.—Make a strong suds of boiling water and soft soap—hard soap makes flannels stiff and wiry—put them in, pressing them down under the water with a clothes-stick; when cool enough rub the articles carefully between the hands, then wring—but not through the wringer—as dry as possible, shake, snap out, and pull each piece into its original size and shape, then throw immediately into another tub of boiling water, in which you have thoroughly mixed some nice bluing. Shake them up and down in this last water with a clothes-stick until cool enough for the hands, then rinse well, wring, shake out and pull into shape—the snapping and pulling are as necessary as the washing—and hang in a sunny place where they will dry quickly. Many prefer to rinse in two waters with the bluing in the last, and this is always advisable when there are many flannels. CARE OF IRONS.—When irons become rough or smoky, lay a little fine salt on a flat surface and rub them well; it will prevent them sticking to any thing starched, and make them smooth; or scour with bath-brick before heating, and when hot rub well with salt, and then with a small piece of beeswax tied up in a rag, after which wipe clean on a dry cloth. A piece of fine sandpaper is also a good thing to have near the stove, or a hard, smooth board covered with brick dust, to rub each iron on when it is put back on the stove, so that no starch may remain to be burnt on. Put beeswax between pieces of paper or cloth and keep on the table close by the flat-iron stand. If the irons get coated with scorched starch, rub them over the paper that holds the beeswax and it will all come off. Rubbing the iron over the waxed paper, even if no starch adheres, adds to the glossiness of the linen that is ironed. WASHING LACE.—To make the starch properly, mix the dry particles with enough cold water to make a smooth paste, add cold water until it looks like milk and water, and boil it in a smoothly glazed earthen vessel until it is perfectly transparent. While it is cooling squeeze the laces through a soap-suds, and rinse them in clear water. If you wish them clear white, add

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Washing Light-Colored Prints and Cambrics

Buckeye cookery