All Italian restaurants serve the paste as a releve
rather than as an entree, which it usually follows, pre-
ceding the roast in the dinner. As a separate and dis-
tinct dish it can well be made to serve as a full meal,
especially when tagliarini is prepared after the follow-
ing recipe :
Cook one pound of tagliarini in boiling water twenty-five
minutes, tlien draw off the water. To ttie tagliarini add a hand-
117
BOHEMIAN
ful of mushrooms which have been sliced and fried in butter.
Then add three chicken livers which have been chopped small
and fried, one sliced truHle, one red pep-
TAGLIAULM P^^'' chopped line and a little Parmesan
DES cheese. Make a brown sauce of one-third
BEAUX ARTS beef broth thickened with melted butter
and flour and two-thirds tomato sauce, and
pour this over the tagliarini. Sprinkle with the Parmesan
cheese and serve very hot from a chafing dish. (By Oliver, chef
of the Restaurant des Beaux Arts, Paris.)
In San Francisco one finds both the imported and
the domestic paste, and frequently one hears the asser-
tion that the imported is the better. This idea is born of
the thought that all things from Europe are better than
the same made in America. In fact the paste that comes
from Italy is neither so good in taste, nor is it so clean in
the making. We have visited a number of paste fac-
tories in San Francisco and have found them all scrupu-
lously clean, with the best of materials in the composi-
tion of the pastes.
One often wonders how the pastes came to be so
many and how they received their names. Names of
some of them are accidents, as is illustrated by maca-
roni. According to an Italian friend who vouches for
the fact, it received its name from an expression of
pleasure. "Macari" means "fine, excellent," and the
superlative is "macaroni." A famous Italian gourmet
constantly desired new dishes to please his taste, and
one day his chef carried to him something that was
unusual. The gourmet tasted it, cried out "macari!"
Tasted again, threw out his arms in delight and cried
"macaroni!"
"What is the name of this wonderful dish?"
"You have named it. It is macaroni."
118
SAN FRANCISCO
Tipping is variously designated. Some say it is a
nuisance and should be abolished. Some call it an out-
rage and ask for legislative interfer-
ence. Some say it is an extortion and ^ ^^^
refuse to pay it. Some say it is a AND
necessary evil and suffer it. The wise TIPPING
ones look at it a little differently.
Possibly it is best explained or excused, whichever way
you wish to call it, by one of Gouverneur Morris's char-
acters in a recent story, who says :
"Whenever I go anywhere I find persons in humble
situations who smile at me and wish me well. I smile
back and wish them well. It is because at some time or
other I have tipped them. To me the system has never
been an annoyance but a delightful opportunity for the
exercise of tact and judgment."
We look upon tipping as a part of expense to be cal-
culated upon, necessary to insure good service, not only
now but in the future, and it should always be com-
puted in the expense of a trip or a dinner. Tipping, to
our minds, is the oil that makes the wheels of life run
smoothly.
Page 63
Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
All Italian restaurants serve the paste as a releve rather than as an entree, which it usually follows, preceding the roast in the dinner. As a separate and distinct dish it can well be made to serve as a full meal, especially when tagliarini is prepared after the following recipe :
Cook one pound of tagliarini in boiling water twenty-five minutes, then draw off the water. To ttie tagliarini add a hand-
ful of mushrooms which have been sliced and fried in butter.
Then add three chicken livers which have been chopped small and fried, one sliced truffle, one red pepper chopped fine and a little Parmesan chees Make a brown sauce of one-third
Make a brown sauce of one-third beef broth thickened with melted butter and flour and two-thirds tomato sauce, and
pour this over the tagliarini. Sprinkle with the Parmesan
cheese and serve very hot from a chafing dish. (By Oliver, chef
of the Restaurant des Beaux Arts, Paris.)
In San Francisco one finds both the imported and the domestic paste, and frequently one hears the assertion that the imported is the better. This idea is born of the thought that all things from Europe are better than the same made in America. In fact the paste that comes from Italy is neither so good in taste, nor is it so clean in the making. We have visited a number of paste factories in San Francisco and have found them all scrupulously clean, with the best of materials in the composition of the pastes.
One often wonders how the pastes came to be so many and how they received their names. Names of some of them are accidents, as is illustrated by macaroni. According to an Italian friend who vouches for the fact, it received its name from an expression of pleasure. "Macari" means "fine, excellent," and the superlative is "macaroni." A famous Italian gourmet constantly desired new dishes to please his taste, and one day his chef carried to him something that was unusual. The gourmet tasted it, cried out "macari!" Tasted again, threw out his arms in delight and cried "macaroni!"
"What is the name of this wonderful dish?"
"You have named it. It is macaroni."
Tipping is variously designated. Some say it is a nuisance and should be abolished. Some call it an outrage and ask for legislative interference. Some say it is an extortion and refuse to pay it. Some say it is a necessary evil and suffer it. The wise TIPPING ones look at it a little differently. Possibly it is best explained or excused, whichever way you wish to call it, by one of Gouverneur Morris's characters in a recent story, who says :
"Whenever I go anywhere I find persons in humble situations who smile at me and wish me well. I smile back and wish them well. It is because at some time or other I have tipped them. To me the system has never been an annoyance but a delightful opportunity for the exercise of tact and judgment."
We look upon tipping as a part of expense to be calculated upon, necessary to insure good service, not only now but in the future, and it should always be computed in the expense of a trip or a dinner. Tipping, to our minds, is the oil that makes the wheels of life run smoothly.