FoodNet

Bohemian San Francisco

1914

Page 41

Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
FISH Daylight came early and it was just COME IN four o'clock when we began prepara- tions. A cup of hot cotiee while dressing served to get us wide-awake, and we were off to see the fish come in. Fishermen's Wharf lies over at North Beach, at the end of Meiggs's Wharf, where the Customs Ollicers have their station, and to reach it one takes either the Powell and North Beach cars, or the Kearny and North Beach cars, and at the end of either walks two blocks. When you get that far anybody you see can tell you where to go. Fog mist was stealing along the Marin shore, and hiding Golden Gate when we arrived, and the rays of the sun took some time to make a clear path out to sea. Out of the bank of white came gliding the heavy power boats of the Sicilian andCorsican fishermen, while from off shore were the ghostly lateen rigged boats of those who had been fishing up the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, their yards aslant to catch the faint morning breeze. As they slipped through the leaden water to their mooring at the wharf we could see the decks and holds piled with fish and crabs. Roosting on piles, and lining the water's edge on everything that served to give foothold, were countless seagulls, all waiting for the breakfast they knew was coming from the discarded fish, and fit companions were the women with shawls over their heads irrever- ently called mud hens, and old men in dilapidated clothing, who sat along the stringers of the wharf, some with baskets, some with buckets and others with little paper bags, in which to put the fish which they could get so cheaply it meant a meal for them when olher- 76 SAN FRANCISCO wise they would have to go without. The earlier boats were moored and on the decks fires were burning in charcoal braziers, on which the fish- ermen cooked their breakfasts of fish WHERE and coffee, with the hea\y black FISH loaves of bread for which they seem COME IN to have special fancy. As the odor of the cooking fish came up from the water the waiting gulls and men and women moved a little closer. Breakfast over the fishermen turned to the expect- ant crowd and began taking notice of the pitiful offer- ings of coin. Tin buckets, newspapers, bags, rags and even scooped hands were held down, each containing such coin as the owner possessed, and in return came bountiful supply of fish. A fine, fat crab for which your market man would charge you forty cents was sold for ten. Beautiful, fresh sand-dabs, but an hour or two out of the water, were five cents a pound, while sea bass, fresh cod, mackerel, and similar fish went at the same price. Small fish, or white bait, went by quantity, ten cents securing about half a gallon. Smelt, herring, flounder, sole, all went at equally low prices, and as each buyer secured his allotment he went hurr\dng off through the mist, as silently as the floating gulls. When these were all supplied the rest of the fish and crabs were taken up to the wharf and put on the counters of the free market, where they were sold at prices most tempting.