FoodNet

Bohemian San Francisco

1914

Page 35

Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
San Francisco holds no more interesting district than that lying around the base of Telegraph Hill, and extending over toward North Beach, AROLND even as far as Fisherman's Wharf. LITTLE ..Here is the part of San Francisco ITALi ^Y^ryi fjrst felt the restoration impulse, and this was the first part of San Francisco rebuilt after the great fire, and in its rebuild- ing it recovered all of its former characteristics, which is more than can be said of any other part of the re- built city. Here, extending north from Jackson street to the Bay, are congregated Italians, French, Portuguese and Mexicans, each in a distinct colony, and each main- taining the life, manners and customs, and in some in- stances the costumes, of the parent countries, as fully as if they were in their native lands. Here are stores, markets, fish and vegetable stalls, bakeries, paste fac- tories, sausage factories, cheese factories, wine presses, tortilla bakeries, hotels, pensions, and restaurants; each distinctive and full of foreign life and animation, and each breathing an atmosphere characteristic of the country' from which the parent stock came. Walk along the streets on the side of Telegraph Hill and one can well imagine himself transported to a sunny hillside in Italy, for here he hears no other lan- guage than that which came from the shores of the Mediterranean, Here are Italians of all ages, sexes and conditions of servitude, from the padrone to the boot- black who works for a pittance until he obtains enough to start himself in business. If one investigate closely it will be found that many of the people of this part of San Francisco have been here for years and still under- stand no other language than that of their native home. Why sliould they learn anytliing else, they say. Every- body around them, and with whom they come in con- tact speaks Italian. Here are the Corsicans, with their 66 SAN FRANCISCO peculiar ideas of the vendetta and the cheapness of life in general, and the Sicilians and Genoese and Milanese. Here are some from the slopes of Vesuvius or Aetna, with inborn knowl- AROUND edge of the grape and of wine making. LITTLE All have brought with them recipes ITALY and traditions, some dating back for hundreds of years, or even thousands, to the days be- fore the Christian Era was born. It is just the same to them as it was across the ocean, for they hear the same dialect and have the same customs. Do they desire any special delicacy from their home district, they need but go to the nearest Italian grocery store and get it, for these stores are supplied direct from Genoa or Naples. This is the reason that many of the older men and women still speak the soft dialect of their native communities, and if you are so unfortunate as not to be able to understand them, then it is you who are the loser.