First, let us give you an idea of the difficulty under which we secured these recipes by printing them just as he wrote them down for us, and then we shall elaborate 50 SAN FRANCISCO a little and show the result of skillful questioning. This is the way he wrote the recipe for Risotto Milanaise: "Onions chop fine — marrow and little butter — rice — saffron — chicken broth — ^^im Vnjat\p^ wen cook add fresh butter and Parmesan MILANAISE cheese seasoned. What was embodied in the words "wen cook" was the essential of the recipe and here is the way we got it: Chop one large onion fine. Cut a beef marrow into small dice and stir it with the chopped onion. Put a small piece of butter in a frying pan and into this put the onion and marrow and fry to a delicate brown. Now add one scant cup of rice, stirring constantly, and into this put a pinch of saffron that has been bruised. When the rice takes on a brown color add, slowly, chicken broth as needed, until the rice is thoroughly cooked. Then add a lump of fresh butter about the size of a walnut, and sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt✪ Risotto Milanaise. This is to be served with chicken or veal. The second recipe was for Fritto Misto, and he wrote it as follows : "Lamb chops and brains breaded — MTVrn sweetbreads — escallop of veal — fresh MlblU mushrooms — Italian squash when in sea- son— asparagus or cauliflower — fried in fresh butter — dipped in beaten eggs — lime jus." "Fritto Misto" means fried mixture, and the recipe as we finally elucidated it is as follows: Take a lamb chop, a piece of calf brain, one sweetbread, a slice of veal, a fresh mushroom, sliced Italian squash, a piece of asparagus or of cauliflower and dip these into a batter made of an egg well beaten with a little flour. Sprinkle these with a little lime juice and fry to a delicate brown in butter, adding salt and pepper to taste✪ Fritto Misto. At the Gianduja, as at all other Italian restaurants not much affected by Americans, you will find an at- mosphere of unconventionality that is delightful to the Bohemian. There is no irksome espionage on the part 51 BOHEMIAN of other patrons, all of whom are there for the purpose of attending strictly to their own business, and the af- fairs of other diners are of no conse- IN THE HEART quence to them. There is freedom Qp of expression and unconsciousness, j'j'^LY most pleasing after having experi- enced those other restaurants where it seems to be the business of all the rest of the guests to know just what you are eating and drinking. There is little of the obnoxious posing that one finds in res- taurants of the down-town districts, for while Italians, in common with all other Latins, are natural born poseurs, they are not offensive in it, but rather impress you with the same feeling as the antics of a child.

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First, let us give you an idea of the difficulty under which we secured these recipes by printing them just as he wrote them down for us, and then we shall elaborate 50 SAN FRANCISCO a little and show the result of skillful questioning. This is the way he wrote the recipe for Risotto Milanaise: "Onions chop fine — marrow and little butter — rice — saffron — chicken broth — ^^im Vnjat\p^ wen cook add fresh butter and Parmesan MILANAISE cheese seasoned. What was embodied in the words "wen cook" was the essential of the recipe and here is the way we got it: Chop one large onion fine. Cut a beef marrow into small dice and stir it with the chopped onion. Put a small piece of butter in a frying pan and into this put the onion and marrow and fry to a delicate brown. Now add one scant cup of rice, stirring constantly, and into this put a pinch of saffron that has been bruised. When the rice takes on a brown color add, slowly, chicken broth as needed, until the rice is thoroughly cooked. Then add a lump of fresh butter about the size of a walnut, and sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt. This is to be served with chicken or veal. The second recipe was for Fritto Misto, and he wrote it as follows : "Lamb chops and brains breaded — MTVrn sweetbreads — escallop of veal — fresh MlblU mushrooms — Italian squash when in sea- son— asparagus or cauliflower — fried in fresh butter — dipped in beaten eggs — lime jus." "Fritto Misto" means fried mixture, and the recipe as we finally elucidated it is as follows: Take a lamb chop, a piece of calf brain, one sweetbread, a slice of veal, a fresh mushroom, sliced Italian squash, a piece of asparagus or of cauliflower and dip these into a batter made of an egg well beaten with a little flour. Sprinkle these with a little lime juice and fry to a delicate brown in butter, adding salt and pepper to taste. At the Gianduja, as at all other Italian restaurants not much affected by Americans, you will find an at- mosphere of unconventionality that is delightful to the Bohemian. There is no irksome espionage on the part 51 BOHEMIAN of other patrons, all of whom are there for the purpose of attending strictly to their own business, and the af- fairs of other diners are of no conse- IN THE HEART quence to them. There is freedom Qp of expression and unconsciousness, j'j'^LY most pleasing after having experi- enced those other restaurants where it seems to be the business of all the rest of the guests to know just what you are eating and drinking. There is little of the obnoxious posing that one finds in res- taurants of the down-town districts, for while Italians, in common with all other Latins, are natural born poseurs, they are not offensive in it, but rather impress you with the same feeling as the antics of a child.

Bohemian San Francisco