FoodNet

Bohemian San Francisco

1914

Page 19

Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
It was such a dinner as has been accorded to few. Few there are who have the heart to make merry amid crumbling ruins of all they held dear in the material world. The favored ones who assembled there will al- ways hold that dinner in most alTcclionate memory, and to this day not one thinks of it without the choking that comes from over-full emotion. It was more than a tribute to the days of old — it marked the passing of the old San Francisco and the inauguration of the new. It was Bohemia's Swan Song, sung by those to whom San Francisco held more than pleasure — more than sen- timentality. It held for them close-knit ties that noth- ing less than a world-shaking cataclysm could sever — and the cataclysm had arrived. The old Coppa restaurant in Montgomery street be- came a memory and on its ashes came the new one, 36 SAN FRANCISCO located in Pine street between Montgomery and Kearny streets, and for a number of j^ears this remained the idol of Bohemia until changed condi- tions drove the tide of patronage far SANG up toward Powell, Ellis, Eddy and THE SWAN O'Farrell streets. At that time there SONG grew up a mushroom crop of so- called restaurants in Columbus avenue close to Barbary Coast such as Caesar's, the Follies Cabaret, Jupiter and El Paradiso, where space was reserved in the middle of the floor for dancing. Coppa emulated the new idea by fitting out a gorgeous basement room at the corner of Kearny and Jackson, which he called the Neptune Pal- ace. It represented a great grotto under the ocean, and here throngs gathered nightly to dance and eat until the police commissioners closed all of these resorts, as well as Barbary Coast. Coppa became financially injured by this venture and was forced to take a partner in his old restaurant, and finally gave up his share and went beyond the city limits and opened the Pompeiian Garden, on the San Mateo road, and there with his heroic little wife tried to rebuild his shrunken fortunes, leaving the historic res- taurant with its string of black cats and its memorable pictures on the walls to less skilled hands. He strug- gled against hard times and at the time of this writing he, with his wife, their son and his wife, are giving the old-time dinners and trying to make the venture a success. In the old days it was considered a feat of gorman- dizing to go through one of Coppa's dinners and eat everything set before you for one dollar. Notwith- standing the delicious dishes he prepared and the won- derful recipes, the quantity served was so great that one would have to be possessed of enormous capacity, in- deed, to be able to say at the end of the meal that he had eaten all that was given him. 57 BOHEMIAN In his Pompeiian Garden Coppa still maintains his old reputation for most tasty viands and liberal por- tions, and if one desire to find the SANG true Bohemian restaurant of San THE SWAN Francisco today, one that approaches SONG the old spirit of the days before the