The Germans sit early and late, and the Russians are only a little more moderate. The Spanish and Italians strike a happy medium, while the Englishman, who formerly adopted French and German methods combined, Is more temperate; Inebriety has gone out of fashion In England, and as for Americans, they are perhaps as a whole less addicted to the use of wines than any other nation; but those who do drink them, drink heartily. They drink merrily, withal, and are decided contrasts to the English, who, as old Frolssart was wont to declare, " do get drunk very sorrowfully." A Frenchman will take first his oysters and a glass of Pontac or Chablls. Then his potage Is followed by a glass of good " vin ordinaire/' such as Magon ; and after the first course Is taken away he commonly 169 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Correct Wines for all Occasions pours a very small glass of Madeira, rum, or some- thing similar. Whatever other wine his fancy dic- tates follows — as in France it is posible to obtain the finest of wines by the glass. At private dinners in Russia the wines are often placed upon the tables, w^hich are free from dinner service. The guests pour their own wines, or have them poured by the servant, according to their fancy. The plats de jour are on side tables, and the guests are presented with a carte du jour, so that each may order the servant to bring whatever most pleases his fancy. In most other European countries, in good society, the French mode is imitated closely in variety of wines and the mode of taking them. In countries where ice is not easily obtainable a cu- rious fashion of cooling white wines is follow^ed. The decanter is hung up in a flannel bag that has previously been well soaked in water, in the full glare of the sun's rays where there is a strong '' courant d'air/* The consequent evaporation by keeping the bag dripping wet cools the wine almost to freezing point. The water of a covered well or spring, fresh drawn, in which a pound or two of salt is thrown, will reduce the temperature of wine to a low and agreeable point. The Italians still hold to the old custom of lowering the dinner w^ine into a well an hour or two before use, which generally renders its temperature just right. Where expense be no object, freezing mixtures may be used. Eleven parts of sal ammoniac, dry and pow- dered, ten of nitre, sixteen of Glauber salts, and thirty- 170 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Correct Wines for all Occasions two of water, will cool wine sufficiently in any cli- mate— but the operation should be carried on in the coolest place possible. The effect of atmospheric cold in winter often ren- ders a bottle of wine cloudy. This may be remedied by placing it in a room where there is a good fire for an hour or two before serving. In decanting sherry or Madeira, the stoppers of the decanters should be left out for an hour or two, but this should never be done with light and delicate wines, as their bouquet and freshness are visibly affected by contact with the air.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The Germans sit early and late, and the Russians are only a little more moderate. The Spanish and Italians strike a happy medium, while the Englishman, who formerly adopted French and German methods combined, is more temperate; inebrity has gone out of fashion In England, and as for Americans, they are perhaps as a whole less addicted to the use of wines than any other nation; but those who do drink them, drink heartily. They drink merrily, withal, and are decided contrasts to the English, who, as old Frolssart was wont to declare, " do get drunk very sorrowfully." A Frenchman will take first his oysters and a glass of Pontac or Chablls. Then his potage Is followed by a glass of good " vin ordinaire/' such as Magon ; and after the first course Is taken away he commonly Correct Wines for all Occasions pours a very small glass of Madeira, rum, or something similar. Whatever other wine his fancy dictates follows — as in France it is posible to obtain the finest of wines by the glass. At private dinners in Russia the wines are often placed upon the tables, which are free from dinner service. The guests pour their own wines, or have them poured by the servant, according to their fancy. The plats de jour are on side tables, and the guests are presented with a carte du jour, so that each may order the servant to bring whatever most pleases his fancy. In most other European countries, in good society, the French mode is imitated closely in variety of wines and the mode of taking them. In countries where ice is not easily obtainable a curious fashion of cooling white wines is followed. The decanter is hung up in a flannel bag that has previously been well soaked in water, in the full glare of the sun's rays where there is a strong '' courant d'air/* The consequent evaporation by keeping the bag dripping wet cools the wine almost to freezing point. The water of a covered well or spring, fresh drawn, in which a pound or two of salt is thrown, will reduce the temperature of wine to a low and agreeable point. The Italians still hold to the old custom of lowering the dinner wine into a well an hour or two before use, which generally renders its temperature just right. Where expense be no object, freezing mixtures may be used. Eleven parts of sal ammoniac, dry and powdered, ten of nitre, sixteen of Glauber salts, and thirty- Correct Wines for all Occasions two of water, will cool wine sufficiently in any climate— but the operation should be carried on in the coolest place possible. The effect of atmospheric cold in winter often renders a bottle of wine cloudy. This may be remedied by placing it in a room where there is a good fire for an hour or two before serving. In decanting sherry or Madeira, the stoppers of the decanters should be left out for an hour or two, but this should never be done with light and delicate wines, as their bouquet and freshness are visibly affected by contact with the air.

A bachelors cupboard