FoodNet

A bachelors cupboard

1906

Page 68

Presented as published in 1906. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Let US suppose that four people are dining at a res- taurant, and that with oysters or soup, fish, game, and a salad and dessert, they wish wines to the number of two, fairly good, instead of a larger number at a low^r price. The dinner will begin with four cocktails, of course, at 25c. each in most cafes. Then to follow, for the soup and fish, let the sherry be Amontillado old dry at $2.00 the bottle. To follow with the game, let Burgundy be the choice, say, *^ White Cap " ultra sec sparkling, w^hich will be $2.50 more, although one may substitute Romance at $1.50, if he elects. Cor- dials or cognac may follow at 20c. per head — and the w^ne bill will foot up just a trifle over or under $6.00, as the case may be. At the next table, suppose four people whose pocket- books are not quite so long are dining in the same fashion. Let them order, besides the cocktails, a pale Generoso sherry at $1.00 the bottle, or even a good California sherry at 75c. the bottle, to be followed by 167 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Correct Wines for all Occasions a quart of Great Western Champagne at $1.25, or a quart of Beehive Burgundy at 75c., and cordials as elected. The cocktails and cordials cost the same, but for from $1.50 to $2.00 the impecunious party may make merry over their wine in the same fashion as their neighbors — and go home with clearer heads into the bargain. This is an important item, for poor peo pie generally have to show up the next morning over a desk or behind a counter, so the condition of one's head is of grave importance. If three whines are wanted by the " party of the first part," let the sherry and Burgundy be followed by a good, dry champagne. For sake of variety, Madeira might be substituted for the Burgundy, especially if the third course be an entree. But after all, if it's to be game, there's nothing better to accompany the bird than rare old Burgundy, with its pleasant sparkle and roseate hue. The Californian takes great pride in the wine of his State. In San Francisco, where w^ere, perhaps, aside from New York, the finest restaurants on the conti- nent, one seldom saw imported wine drunk unless it be sherries and champagnes, and, perhaps, Burgundies. But after all, the native whines are tempting enough, and the sparkling Moselle of California is excellent indeed, and often substituted for champagne. At Zinkand's, Tait's, the Techau Tavern, The Poodle Dog, and the Palace Grill were the finest of cellars, and the wines of California were served three times 168 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Correct Wines for all Occasions where the imported were called for once. As for apri- cot brandy — there's no better in the world than that of Southern California. If one elects to serve champagne alone at his dinner party, then let It be very dry. Some like, by way of variety, to serve champagne-cup throughout the meal. But tell It not In Kentucky — for If anyone dares there to prefer anything to a great glass pitcher of mint julep, he gets himself very much disliked In the Blue Grass country. Nations differ in their mode of using wines. The French take theirs at dinner, and use only enough to make conversation sparkle like their own wines.