4. Worcester Salt is the only salt in the
world ever awarded a gold medal at the
Panama-Pacific Exposition, the St. Louis
Exposition, the Pan-American Exposition,
the. American Institute and the Chicago
World’s Fair.
AS A SEASONING
; ET one of America’s greatest authorities on the art of cook-
ing, Ann Batchelder, food editor of Delineator, tell you of
this often misunderstood art of seasoning. She says:
“It must be remembered that salt is the first and perhaps the
most important seasoning agent we have in cookery.
“T should say that salt, if no other seasoning in the world was
available, could and would be used in sueh a way that food
would still be palatable, interesting and intriguing. But I should
hate to give up all other seasonings. Still—we should let the salt
go last! |
“I think that a good many people who follow the art of cook-
ing, either as experts or amateurs, are members of that school
which holds that salt on anything, in anything, whether meat,
vegetable, soups—any food whatever—may be added tempera-
mentally, not so much as to quantity but in regard to the right
time. For instance, in a cake. The time to add the salt is when
the eggs are beaten. Do you not see? The salt is incorporated
with the flattest of ingredients. The moisture takes up the grains,
the eggs are always thoroughly mixed into the cake mixture.
Put in with the other dry ingredients, the salt is still salt, but it
“goes” with the eggs. In rolls and bread the salt is always added
to the milk. It never goes in with the flour. Another thing, when
put in with eggs, particularly with egg whites, salt helps in the
quality of the beaten egg. It will make a warm egg white beat up
as stiff as a chilled white.
“Tn soups and in sauces salt should be added the first thing.
The reason is obvious. It requires long cooking to get the blend.
All seasonings in this type of thing should be added early in the
game, but salt first. Taste, too. Don’t be in the ambiguous posi-
tion of having to add salt last, just before serving, because you
have salted too little, or thinning out the sauce or soup to get rid
of over salting. Taste first. |
“In fish or meat cookery, the same technique applies to both.
Steaks are toughened, roasts too, by salting before or too early in
the cooking. The juices are drawn out, the flavor spoiled. In
roasting and in broiling, I salt the food just before the last turn
on the broiler or in the frying pan.
“Try to achieve a result in all cooking that will bring to the
table a perfect ensemble. Food lacking even one essential sea-
soning is like a shirt without a collar button. It may stay on but
who cares!
“In vegetable cooking I suppose the greatest crimes with salt
are committed. With tender young fresh vegetables right out of
the garden, the water they are cooked in should be salted. Not
too much. About a teaspoon of salt to a quart of water. And
vegetables suffer from being cooked in too much water. The
poor things are drowned, not cooked. Water for new peas, car-
rots, beans, etc., should be gauged so that when the vegetable is
done there should be no water to drain off. And if the water has
been salted, the vegetables have started on their seasoning
careers. Then, with white pepper, plenty of butter and in some
cases a little sweet cream, they are ready to send to the table.
Taste them. For it is possible to add a little salt here, and no
harm done, if they need it.
“Potatoes should always be boiled in pretty well salted water.
New potatoes need more salt than old ones. All greens when in
season need salted water for cooking.
Page 2
Presented as published in 1933. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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4. Worcester Salt is the only salt in the
world ever awarded a gold medal at the
Panama-Pacific Exposition, the St. Louis
Exposition, the Pan-American Exposition,
the. American Institute and the Chicago
World’s Fair.
AS A SEASONING
; ET one of America’s greatest authorities on the art of cook-
ing, Ann Batchelder, food editor of Delineator, tell you of
this often misunderstood art of seasoning. She says:
“It must be remembered that salt is the first and perhaps the
most important seasoning agent we have in cookery.
“T should say that salt, if no other seasoning in the world was
available, could and would be used in sueh a way that food
would still be palatable, interesting and intriguing. But I should
hate to give up all other seasonings. Still—we should let the salt
go last! |
“I think that a good many people who follow the art of cook-
ing, either as experts or amateurs, are members of that school
which holds that salt on anything, in anything, whether meat,
vegetable, soups—any food whatever—may be added tempera-
mentally, not so much as to quantity but in regard to the right
time. For instance, in a cake. The time to add the salt is when
the eggs are beaten. Do you not see? The salt is incorporated
with the flattest of ingredients. The moisture takes up the grains,
the eggs are always thoroughly mixed into the cake mixture.
Put in with the other dry ingredients, the salt is still salt, but it
“goes” with the eggs. In rolls and bread the salt is always added
to the milk. It never goes in with the flour. Another thing, when
put in with eggs, particularly with egg whites, salt helps in the
quality of the beaten egg. It will make a warm egg white beat up
as stiff as a chilled white.
“Tn soups and in sauces salt should be added the first thing.
The reason is obvious. It requires long cooking to get the blend.
All seasonings in this type of thing should be added early in the
game, but salt first. Taste, too. Don’t be in the ambiguous posi-
tion of having to add salt last, just before serving, because you
have salted too little, or thinning out the sauce or soup to get rid
of over salting. Taste first. |
“In fish or meat cookery, the same technique applies to both.
Steaks are toughened, roasts too, by salting before or too early in
the cooking. The juices are drawn out, the flavor spoiled. In
roasting and in broiling, I salt the food just before the last turn
on the broiler or in the frying pan.
“Try to achieve a result in all cooking that will bring to the
table a perfect ensemble. Food lacking even one essential sea-
soning is like a shirt without a collar button. It may stay on but
who cares!
“In vegetable cooking I suppose the greatest crimes with salt
are committed. With tender young fresh vegetables right out of
the garden, the water they are cooked in should be salted. Not
too much. About a teaspoon of salt to a quart of water. And
vegetables suffer from being cooked in too much water. The
poor things are drowned, not cooked. Water for new peas, car-
rots, beans, etc., should be gauged so that when the vegetable is
done there should be no water to drain off. And if the water has
been salted, the vegetables have started on their seasoning
careers. Then, with white pepper, plenty of butter and in some
cases a little sweet cream, they are ready to send to the table.
Taste them. For it is possible to add a little salt here, and no
harm done, if they need it.
“Potatoes should always be boiled in pretty well salted water.
New potatoes need more salt than old ones. All greens when in
season need salted water for cooking.