The complete Indian housekeeper & cook

The present habit in India of serving the remove before the entrees is opposed to tradition, though that is no reason why it should be wrong. It has one advantage, in allowing the cook more time to dish the entrees neatly ; but if the fashion is to continue, the name of the latter will surely need revision. An entree is distinctly an introduction to the heavier meats. For ourselves, we believe this new idea has arisen from the fact that in most French cookery books and menus the releves are printed first, and the entrees after. But this does not mean that they were served first, but simply that in those anti ti la llusse days, the » top and bottom ” were shown before the four corners. Gastronomically, it is a mistake, tor it crowds the made-dishes and sweets together, and forces those who are obliged to stick to plain diet to finish their dinner of soup, fish, and roast without a pause. Cold sweets before the hot is a barbarism only to be equalled by serving a cheese before jelly as a pudding. Menu cards are a great convenience, and the ordering ot a dinner is more likely to be consistent if the misti^ss makes it a rule to write out the menu on an ordinary china micwm slate every day. It is also a means by which she can check the idle cook’s constant excuse, " Kiichch hukm nahin milla I had no order ”). , , .1 . i In re'Tard to the decoration of the table, the tendency is to overdo it. Bright glass, clean linen, and brilliant silver are the first requirements ; after that, fancy may have play, so long as flowers are not strewn about the table to lade “ ivmhly under the wary eyes.” Such a sight is ex 1 erne y depressing. One thing must be said 111 regard to the table- Housekeeper and Cook 53 cloth. In India this is a limp rag, without a bit of gloss, or a suspicion of blue. Insist on a rinsing in blued starch-water and ironing while wet. The napkins, too, without being stiff, should have some backbone ; they should not, how- ever, be twisted into fancy shapes, but one pattern should be adopted and adhered to throughout. Those who are par- ticular about their table-linen will, of course, provide them- selves with a cloth-press. One great advantage in its use is that it necessitates the cloth being folded up and put away between each meal, and so checks a variety of evil Indian habits born of a table always ready spread. Wines and liquors of all soi-ts should be in the beai-er’s charge, and it is he who should put the decanters on the table at dessert. The present fashion of making dessei’t into a troisiime service, with the servants perpetually handing round wines and sweets, is detestable. The dinner ends, as it began, with a bustle and a clatter of spoons and forks, instead of a calm. So soon, therefoi-e, as the dessert has been once handed round, it should be placed on the table and the servants enjoined not to meddle with a spoon, a fork, or a plate, within hearing of the table. Then comes the time for con- versation, and not, as now, for a hurried l)olt of the ladies into the drawing-room before the khilmulgdrs have done pranc- ing round with distracting chocolates, pralines, or pickled ginger.