In India, of late years, the style of dinnei’-giving has
vastly improved, and it is I'are now to come across the saddle
of mutton, boiled fowl, and almond soup, which was con-
sidered de rigiieur a few years ago. But it is a question if the
present style is not a little pretentious for the salaries and
position of many who adopt it. Rs. 1800 a month cannot be
held equivalent for more than £1200 a year, or even less, if
the enormous preliminary expenses of India are taken into
account. Both servants and house rent out here average
higher in proportion to income than they do at home, whilst,
taking one thing with another, living is little, if at all, cheaper.
Of course, where there is a family, the actual worth of an
Indian income sinks to at most one-half, as far as its applica-
bility to personal expenditure goes. Now, a family with
£1200 a year at home would not dream of giving champagne
and pate de foie gras, or spending thirty shillings in preserved
fruits, bonbons, &c., for a very recherche pudding. Why
should it be done out here ? There are plenty of inex-
pensive dishes that are quite as nice to eat, and a house-
keeper really does her work better if she manages, as can be
done, to please her guests more simply.
As it is, one is often treated to a badly-cooked dinner in
the style of a third-class French re.staurant, even to the hors
d’ oeuvres. In regard to the latter, it is doubtful if they should
evei be considered a legitimate part of the menu at private
houses, though exceptions may be made occasionally in favour
of fresh oysters. I he real raison d’etre of the hors d’ oeuvre is
not to stimulate the appetite. To do this it must be taken
ten minutes before dinner, like bitters. It was at first nothing
more or less than a restaurant dodge to while away the time
(and increase the bill) whilst the dinner that had been ordered
was being prepared. It therefore ceases to liave any mean-
ing m a private house, where, it is to be presumed, the guests
^2 The Complete Indian
will not have to wait for their dinners. On the other hand,
it may be laid down as an axiom that no dinner, even a purely
family one, is complete without a dressed vegetable ot some
sort or kind.
Without going into detail, it may be remarked that clear
soups are far more wholesome than thick cloying ones, except
in summer, when, the subsequent dishes being of a light
character, the vegetable jnirees are in their proper place.
The ordinary glutinous Indian soup is most unwholesome, and
is admirably described in the CutsiuicT dcs (^uisuiict s in these
words: Cette pate epame et gluante, est une vraie colle sur
I’estomac, qid, toujours indigeste, derange ses fonction-ii.
Page 34
Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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In India, of late years, the style of dinnei’-giving has
vastly improved, and it is I'are now to come across the saddle
of mutton, boiled fowl, and almond soup, which was con-
sidered de rigiieur a few years ago. But it is a question if the
present style is not a little pretentious for the salaries and
position of many who adopt it. Rs. 1800 a month cannot be
held equivalent for more than £1200 a year, or even less, if
the enormous preliminary expenses of India are taken into
account. Both servants and house rent out here average
higher in proportion to income than they do at home, whilst,
taking one thing with another, living is little, if at all, cheaper.
Of course, where there is a family, the actual worth of an
Indian income sinks to at most one-half, as far as its applica-
bility to personal expenditure goes. Now, a family with
£1200 a year at home would not dream of giving champagne
and pate de foie gras, or spending thirty shillings in preserved
fruits, bonbons, &c., for a very recherche pudding. Why
should it be done out here ? There are plenty of inex-
pensive dishes that are quite as nice to eat, and a house-
keeper really does her work better if she manages, as can be
done, to please her guests more simply.
As it is, one is often treated to a badly-cooked dinner in
the style of a third-class French re.staurant, even to the hors
d’ oeuvres. In regard to the latter, it is doubtful if they should
evei be considered a legitimate part of the menu at private
houses, though exceptions may be made occasionally in favour
of fresh oysters. I he real raison d’etre of the hors d’ oeuvre is
not to stimulate the appetite. To do this it must be taken
ten minutes before dinner, like bitters. It was at first nothing
more or less than a restaurant dodge to while away the time
(and increase the bill) whilst the dinner that had been ordered
was being prepared. It therefore ceases to liave any mean-
ing m a private house, where, it is to be presumed, the guests
^2 The Complete Indian
will not have to wait for their dinners. On the other hand,
it may be laid down as an axiom that no dinner, even a purely
family one, is complete without a dressed vegetable ot some
sort or kind.
Without going into detail, it may be remarked that clear
soups are far more wholesome than thick cloying ones, except
in summer, when, the subsequent dishes being of a light
character, the vegetable jnirees are in their proper place.
The ordinary glutinous Indian soup is most unwholesome, and
is admirably described in the CutsiuicT dcs (^uisuiict s in these
words: Cette pate epame et gluante, est une vraie colle sur
I’estomac, qid, toujours indigeste, derange ses fonction-ii.