Paper-bag cookery

the giblets, back, liver, bones, etc. Place an ounce of either fresh butter or clarified beef dripping in a clean enamelled iron stew-pan; as soon as it oils add the giblets, etc., together with a small onion stuck with a clove, and notched, in order to allow the juice to escape, a dozen peppercorns, a bay leaf, a tiny bit of mace, a carrot peeled and sliced, a turnip peeled and cut into neat pieces, a bit of celery, or else a good pinch of celery-salt, and a pinch of sugar. Fry for 10 or 12 minutes, and then add half-a-pint or more of well-flavored stock ; bring gently to the boil ; next draw the pan to the side of the fire and simmer very gently, taking care that the stock does not reduce. Have ready a turnip and a carrot cut into tiny stars ; tie all these up in a bit of muslin and set them to cook in the stock. When the latter is thoroughly strong and all the goodness has been extracted from the giblets, etc., strain off the stock into a wellgreased bag, add to it pepper and salt to taste and the fillets of fowl, and let the contents of the bag simmer slowly until the fillets are thoroughly cooked, say about 45 minutes. Then dish up on a hot dish, and garnish with the vegetable stars ; thicken the liquor in which the fillets were cooked with an ounce of brown roux, or, failing this, with half an ounce of flour and half an ounce of butter kneaded together ; add to it four ounces of previously cooked mushrooms, make very hot, and pour over and around the fillets of fowl ; garnish the outer edge with a border of crisply-fried croutons, and serve as quickly as possible. A wineglassful of sherry or Marsala is an improvement to this sauce. Chicken aux Olives. — Take a chicken trussed as if for boiling; dust it lightly with spiced pepper, and reserve on a plate till needed; place two ounces of fresh butter or half a gill of oil, whichever is most convenient, in a large bag, add a tiny bit of garlic, notched in order to allow the juice to escape, a large tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, and the chicken ; place the bag on the broiler in the oven and cook for half an hour. Then remove the bird to a hot dish, having drained it carefully as directed. Pour off all the grease from the remaining breadcrumbs and remove the garlic. Put the residue of the gravy in a clean bag with an ounce of gelatine, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a heaped teaspoonful of red cur- rant jelly and a large spoonful of good stock or gravy. Fold and make very hot, then open the bag and add a dozen olives farcies. Make hot on the broiler for 5 minutes. Pour over the chicken and garnish with straw potatoes, or, if liked, spinach. If the basting and draining are carefully attended to, this dish is bound to be a success; but if the slightest portion of grease is allowed to remain behind, the flavor will be spoilt. Pheasant is excellent treated in this way, and so, too, is partridge. ROAST Sirloin, Ribs, or Round of Beef. — Well grease with dripping (but this is not absolutely necessary). Put the joint in a bag. Do not season the joint before cooking. Put the joint on a broiler in a moderate oven. For a 3 lb. joint allow 45 minutes; 7 lb., 1 hour and 20 minutes; 14 lb., 2 hours and 15 minutes; 20 lb., 3 hours.